Painting NEW cabinets

We acquired a set of slightly used display cabinets to use as a desk. The problem is that where we are using these cabinets, the wood doesn't match, so we want to paint them. These are KraftMaid maple cabinets with a clear finish on them. After talking to a few people about painting them, we decided to give it a try. We tried two different techniques. 1 - Rub the test door down with Wilbond and then paint with primer from BenMoore. After drying for over 24 hours, the primer scrapes right off, not a good thing. So we tried #2 - Sand the surface with 220 grit and prime. Unfortunately, we got the same results, the primer just scrapes off with a finger nail.
Are we being too hopeful or anxious in our attempts to make sure the paint stays affixed to the doors? We are planning on putting on a enamel black finish.
We are using a Craftsman Detail and Touch-up Spray Gun to do the spraying. http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00915002000P?vName=Automotiv...
Can anyone help with this endeavor?
Thanks Ken
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
avallk wrote:

I'd consider that the norm on a hard surface. Try painting withoout primer...the surface is already well sealed and paint should stick as well as/better than primer.
--

dadiOH
____________________________
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Will give that a try... thanks.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Are these REAL wood, or fake plastic laminate?
If they are wood, sand and STAIN them to match what you already have!
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Yes, they are real wood. We have already tried to stain to match other wood and ended up painting. We even had a furniture restorer come in to try to match the stain with no luck.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

spraying.http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00915002000P?vName=Automotiv...
Did you try an oil based primer yet?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
avallk wrote:

Are they real wood or printed finish? If they are wood with clear finish, you don't need a primer .. just sand and paint. If they are printed finish, you may need a primer labelled for plastic and/or formica. If mixed properly and used for the right finish, the primer should not scrape off. I would check back with the paint store if you applied it according to instructions.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Yes, they are real wood, at least the parts that we have been working with. I think the others are veneer. We are stopping at the paint store this afternoon with the door with the primer on it. We will see what they have to say. I'll let you all know.
Thanks for the input. Ken
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Well, the paint store was very helpful. We were not waiting long enough for the paint to cure #1 and #2 primer is not as hard a finish. Also, we may have made the surface a little too smooth with the 220 grit. They suggested a little coarser paper and then use the 220 between the primer and finish coat(s).
Thanks for all the input. Ken
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

spraying.http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00915002000P?vName=Automotiv...
If you want the paint to last, you have to sand OFF the old finish, then prime it and paint it. I'd use oil based paint if not white (Oil base White yellows), but also note that latex paint, even if touch dry, really takes a few weeks to completely harden and can easily scratch until it completely cures.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.