P-trap slip joint still leaking

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The slip joint where my PVC sink trap enters the copper drain stack is STILL leaking.
I've been to the plumbing supply, Mom&Pop's Hardware, Ace, Home Depot, and Lowes. NOBODY has heard of a "special" slip joint nut and washer for a copper fitting.
They keep sending me home with exactly what I already have. New trap parts, nuts and washers slow the leak to varying degrees, but never stop it.
The water is CLEARLY coming out between the washer and the PVC trap pipe.
Should I just slather some liquid pipe dope on the PVC, stuff it into the copper, nut it up, and be done with it?
If that doesn't work I'm going to wrap it with Mighty Fix-it tape and give up.
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Are you sure the washer is the correct size? Seen b/4 where someone complained about a problem. Here it was an 1-1/4" ptrap, going into a 1-1/2" drain, there is a special reducing washer for this application. If you are positive you have the correct sizes, an unorthodox way is to smear silicone and hand tighten.
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Are you sure the washer is the correct size? Seen b/4 where someone complained about a problem. Here it was an 1-1/4" ptrap, going into a 1-1/2" drain, there is a special reducing washer for this application. If you are positive you have the correct sizes, an unorthodox way is to smear silicone and hand tighten.
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On Jan 28, 2:41 pm, snipped-for-privacy@rochester.rr.com wrote:

I would go buy one of these (either 1 1/2 or 2" depending on your currnet fitting) and try the nut that comes with it. http://www.pexsupply.com/Cello-WDSJ-20-1-1-4-Copper-DWV-Sweat-Trap-Adapter-C-x-Compr
http://s3.pexsupply.com/images/products/zoom/wdsj-20-2.jpg
I bought one of these at HD a few months ago and the nut had an integrated washer that pressed against the inside flare of the copper fitting and pressed tight to the inserted PVC. No plastic cone washer or rubber washer. Worked great.
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On Jan 28, 2:41 pm, snipped-for-privacy@rochester.rr.com wrote:

Did you try the steps I suggested to confirm that you have a tight connection?
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Yes, it slips right out no matter how tight I make the nut.
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?
wrote:

Obviously, you either need a smaller diameter washer or a larger diameter pipe. Maybe you'll have to change it out unless you can seal it with the other suggestions. It may be just as easy to swap the pip, but I can't see it so can't say for sure.
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Everything's 1-1/2". That's why its driving me nuts.
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They do but they're also available individually.

Some are lucky enough to have plumbing that works forever, too, I suppose.
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On Jan 30, 12:34 am, " snipped-for-privacy@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz"

The problem is those P traps are junk quality:(
I havent had a leak in years since I started putting silicone caulk on the fittings right before putting them together.
The bathtub caulk is cheap, stops any leaks:) and the fittings still come apart easily when necessary:)
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wrote:

I don't have problems once the parts are replaced, but your idea is interesting. Does any leftover caulk cause problems down the road?
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I think I finally got it. Running the dishwasher right now, and no drips!
It took FIVE different nuts and washers to find one that would seal up. The one that finally worked was from Lowes, a metal nut with a super-soft orange washer.
I tried the plastic nut with plastic washer from the kit, metal nuts with tapered rubber washers in each direction, metal nut with square rubber washer... all leaked.
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On Sun, 30 Jan 2011 08:22:18 -0800 (PST), snipped-for-privacy@rochester.rr.com wrote:

Sounds like you have a damaged part in there. Leave it, as long as there are no leaks, but next time you go in there, replace everything. It's cheaper than insanity.
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On Jan 30, 11:30 am, " snipped-for-privacy@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz"

That's the thing. I DID replace everything that was replaceable. TWICE.
BTW, it still leaks. Only one drop every time the sump pump runs, which is a HUGE improvement over a tablespoon. Luckily the sump pump only runs when the laundry machine drains. Once a week.
I'm going to let it go a while. Hopefully with some crud and mineral deposits it will seal up.
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I bought a kit.
The kit does NOT come with: 1. A nut and washer for the drain stack. 2. Tailpiece for the sink drain basket. 3. Nut and washer for the tailpiece.
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On Jan 28, 2:41 pm, snipped-for-privacy@rochester.rr.com wrote:

Finally found the picture of what I'm talking about. I could not get my copper to pvc trap adapters to stop dripping without using this kind of nut (in copper) that comes with a copper trap adapter.
http://www.plumbingsupply.com/images/tdp-1andaquarter-poly-sj-nut-builtinwasher.jpg
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On Fri, 28 Jan 2011 11:41:16 -0800 (PST), snipped-for-privacy@rochester.rr.com wrote:

Make sure the point of the cone washer is entering the copper socket and not catching on a flat surface. The cone nose must compress into the copper fitting to clamp the tailpiece.
--
Mr.E

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I would smear silicone rubber on evrything that could possibly be involved in this and put it together, smear some more SR on the outside of everything, let it sit overnight and see if that doesn't work.
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Never thought of that<G>
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responding to http://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/P-trap-slip-joint-still-leaking-617893-.htm Tommyboy wrote:
snipped-for-privacy@rochester.rr.com wrote:

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****** ****** ******* ============================ ******* ******* ******* =========== ** ** ** ** * ** ( | ** ** ** ** ** ____/ ******* ******* ** ****** ****** **
You probably have the same problem I frequently encounter. You are attaching a metal tailpiece to a pvc ptrap and the hard plastic beveled washer is still allowing a small amount of water to leak through and come out around the plastic nut. Go to Lowes or Home Depot and buy a rubber washer designed to go into the nut for a metal nut fitting. You put the nut plastic ptrap nut on first, then the soft rubber washer and finally the hard plastic beveled washer. When you tighten down the nut, it will cause the soft rubber washer to compress against that hard plastic washer and form a much more watertight connection around the metal tailpiece and plastic nut. I think the issue is those plastic washers are so hard they don't compress well around the metal tailpiece. The soft rubber washer will, and the extra benefit is you can tighten the plastic nut without cracking the plastic washer if you happen to over tighten the nut. The rubber washer ( orange at Lowes ) is about 25 to 50 cents. Well worth the aggravation.
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