New Thermostat + 2 Wire System (problems)

I have a 2-wire, 24v, single-stage heat only, SlantFin hot water boiler, about 20 or 30 years old, maybe more. Two wires go from the system to the thermostat in my living room. One wire is red and one is white. On my current thermostat, the red wire connects to Rh and the white wire connects to W1.
I bought a new programmable thermostat. It wants me to connect the red wire to RH and the white wire to W2 (there is no W1), but also calls for a common wire, which I don't have.
Installed with just the 2 wires, the thermostat keeps making a clicking or chattering sound when the heat comes on. The sound diminishes over time, but not completely. In the first minute or so, it goes from loud clicking to a soft chattering sound that is much lower in volume.
I didn't let it run long this way because I wasn't sure if it would ruin the thermostat.
My question is, is there a way I can stop the chattering without a common wire, since I don't have one? Also, if left with the clicking, is that something which can damage the thermostat and/or other parts of the heating system?
I am not versed in boiler transformers and such, so I am not sure how to find a common "terminal" on my boiler to run a wire from. Is there an alternate way to make this work without a common wire, or do I absolutely need one? I don't even know if my boiler has a terminal for a common wire.
If I follow the wires backwards from the current thermostat to my boiler, the wires go into the basement to a Honeywell Aquastat valve first, and from there into a big metal box with a removable cover inside the boiler itself, behind the front boiler cover.
Can anyone offer me some advice? If needed, I can take some pictures of the components in question and post them here or to a binary group, or to an image hosting site.
I really love this new thermostat I bought. It is a Totaline touch screen with password protected settings. I bought it because I pay the heating bill but have a couple of boarders living in my house who refuse to help me save on the heat bill. I want to use this to keep them from altering my heat settings. I really don't want to return the thermostat if at all possible. I want to keep and use it if I can figure out this "common wire" problem.
I should also mention that on my current thermostat, there is a wire which jumpers from the Rh terminal to the Rc terminal.
Is there a way I can jumper two different terminals on the thermostat to get the desired effect, or no? Or is there some other alternate way to get the chattering to stop without using a common wire?
The wiring diagram for my new thermostat can be found at http://www.totaltouch.info/documents/TT_wiring.pdf - it also gives information on each terminal and what it is for.
Could my solution be to run the white wire to the C terminal instead of the W2 terminal, or would that create a huge problem? Like I said, I know nothing about this stuff. I just wanted to replace my thermostat.
Any advice or suggestions would be very helpful.
Thanks,
Jack
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So, if we wait for 6 days, your question will go away? Tom
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I don't understand your reply...
Jack

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wrote:

Makes no sense to me either.
Bob
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Jack Benimble wrote:

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disconnect thermostat disconnected completely. if the two wires are touched together, your system should operate normally calling for heat. if you separate the wires, the system should stop calling for heat. looks like you're spending too much time on the wire colors. if room is cold and RH closes across C as tested with the thermostat calling for heat with your ohmmeter, you should also see that circuit open when the thermostat is warm. call that toll free service number in the morning.
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The problem is the chattering sound. I already called customer support and they said I needed to connect the common wire to the C terminal, but I don't have a common wire. Only 2 wires, one red and one white. I told them that and they said to "fish" a blue wire from my boiler/transformer and connect it, but there isn't one.
I have the old thermostat back in place and the system works fine. I just want to solve this chattering noise with the new thermostat so I can use it.
Jack
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I'd return the thermostat and get any of a number of programmable stats that don't require the common . Honeywell, White Rogers, and Robertshaw all make them

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I have a Rite-temp from H-Depot and it can run on battery power alone(does not need C wire) works great with 2 wire system.

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In my other post, I mentioned that I have a 24v single stage gas boiler. It is a 2 wire heat-only system (hot water heat).
I bought a new thermostat that requires a common wire to be connected between the boiler's transformer and the C terminal on the thermostat, but I don't have a common wire. Installed without this common wire, the new thermostat constantly makes a chattering sound when the heat is on, so I put the old thermostat back on.
On the old thermostat (see attached photo, Therm.jpg) the white wire connects to W and the red wire connects to Rh, with a jumper wire between Rh and Rc.
Also enclosed is a photo (Boiler1.jpg) of the connections inside my boiler, the closest thing I can find to a transformer.
Finally, I have enclosed a photo of the wiring diagram that is on the cover plate for this Aquastat (Boiler2.jpg)
By looking at these pictures, can you tell me if it is possible to hook a "Common Wire" to one of the terminals and run it to the C terminal of my new thermostat to get the chattering to quit? If so, which terminal would I connect it to?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Jack
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You got the wrong thermostat for your setup. You need a "power robbing" thermostat, but i doubt if they make one with a touch screen. You have tywo options: !) put the old thermostat back on; 2) run the third wire. The R is the hot, the W is the load and the C is the common. You must have R and C to power the electronics in the thermostat properly. R to W powers the load, that brings the heat on. If you use R to W to power the electronics, when you call for heat, there is no voltage across R to W to keep the electronics powered, so the relay that brings on the load drops out. Then you have voltage again and the relay pulls in again. In-Out-In-Out, Chatter, Chatter,Chatter. If you leave the new thermostat in you will ruin it and the boiler controls. Then you will need a service tech, which you should have done in the first place. He will know if there is a thermostat available for your application.
I understand the desire to do some things yourself, but messing with stuff you could damage that you don't understand is not a good way to save money. BTW, they should NOT give you your money back on the thermostat, since it was your error.
Don't mess with electricity since you don't understand it. You might get hurt. Or get some training before you tackle your next project.
Stretch
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Maybe it is just the sound of water boiling in the water boiler?
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Real simple...you wont get it to work WITHOUT a common. What you have now, is nothing but a loop from the transformer to the stat, and then to the gas valve. You have to have a C line or it wont work....period. Pull a 18-3 wire and be done with it...
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That's exactly what I'm trying to learn to do.
See my other post and followups, titled "Not giving up just yet - Perhaps a Pro can help?" - I have posted links to photos I have taken of the relevant equipment and terminals.
If you look at my other posts, and know which terminal is the common that I should connect to the thermostat, let me know.
I know I could call a professional and have it done, but it doesn't seem all that complicated to run one wire once I know where to run it from.
Jack
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