For those of you following this thread, or not, I have a small deck by
my front door. It was redwood, and it is being replaced with concrete.
The wood railing has been removed, and being replaced with a powder
coated aluminum railing. The railing is small and measures appx. 8' long.
What is the best way to mount the new railing into the new concrete
after it has cured for about two weeks?
Can we (a friend will be helping me with this) simply use a masonry bit
and a drill to mount the railing to the concrete? I know that special
tools need to be used.
A friend to mine says that:
> You are missing the point. The concrete will be the flat surface upon
The cement contractor said it is difficult to mount bolts into the
concrete because we don't exactly know where those bolts will go until
the concrete is poured. I don't even have the railing ordered yet.
So, help please! What would you do?
Am I safe to drill directly into the concrete? It seems this way would
be sufficient. My feeling is that surely others who have had concrete
decks, simply removed an old railing an drilled in a new one, esp. if
they go the aluminum route.
Don't have your exact answer, I've seen many types of railings mounted
in concrete, after allowed to cure. A hole is cored and epoxy (?) is
used. (keep it in the correct position while the epoxy cures) Look
around at various "public" buildings with handicap access
Best example I found of this is here:
That picture is exactly what I was trying to describe.
Thanks for the info., as well as the tip on epoxy. Much appreciated.
Here's what they use around here.
They're Blue screws made for this type of application and are available at
Home Depot/Lowes etc in the hardware aisle. Comes complete with the
appropriate concrete drill bit in the package.
For your application, I'd use the HEX HEAD: 3/16" X 2 3/4" or 1/4" X 2 3/4"
I' ve used these several times for anchoring door frame, aluminum railing
base and even (2X4 & 2X6) lumber bottom plate to concrete. They work
Just drill slowly and carefully ( dont have the drill set on High speed). I
like to pull the bit out every 1/2 - 1" inch or so and suck the dust out of
the hole with a Shop Vac. Make sure the hole is "clean" before inserting
the Blu Screw and use a socket drive to turn it down.
This is excellent info. I have gotten so many great ideas that I have
my homework cut out for me. This is exactly what I am looking for to
finish the project.
I will report back in around three weeks to let everyone know how it went.
The concrete man is starting tomorrow.
Back in the stone age, we would take our best guess as to where the
railing mounts would be, and shove an aluminum pop can into the concrete
at that point. Once railings showed up, and the porch had sort-of cured,
we'd tug the pop cans out, and set the anchor sockets in the hole with
fast-setting cement. Probably not as strong as setting the bolts in the
original pour, but stronger than epoxy-setting the bolts in drilled holes.
I'd aim at having holes for the vertical rails to drop down into, rather
than bolting to a flat surface. Not likely the rails will ever be pulled
UP strongly, but they definitely need to be strong against sideways
forces. You can always kid-proof them with wedges in the sides of the holes.
neighbors upgraded to Aluminum. railings, almost useless weak , in a
fall may well break away and person fall 10 feet. these bolted to the
far better to cement in a strong railing into the slab.
*You can drill and hope that you don't hit a stone or rebar in either case
you would have to move your hole. Drilling is not the most secure as anchors
can become loose from excessive stresses put on the rail. I suppose an
epoxy based system would be the best in this respect. Having the bolts go
in while the concrete is soft is optimum. Even better is to have them
secured to rebar before the pour. You should contact the rail manufacturer
for a template of the bolt placement.
Around here, it's done all the time. Lags & shield. You'll of course need a
masonry bit, lags & shields can be bought by the piece, not necessarily by
the box. For example:
Hard to say without seeing the railing and how it mounts. The photos
are about useless since they take wood posts and you are using aluminum.
I suggest picking out a railing then come back here with some specs.
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