The problem with the logs is they will not stay lit. I can tell if it
is not going to work because the pilot light will not stay. If the
pilot light does stay lit then the logs will only burn for 20 or 30
This occurs in a rather large room so I don't see the gas cutting off
due to increased CO or decreased O2.
I would appreciate any advice on this subject. All I can think of is
haing the logs replaced. Should I do this myself or have someone
else (a pro) do it.
All advice would be greatly appreciated as would sggestions for help
in selecting high efficentcy gas logs.
The most common problem is the thermocouple. If it doesn't detect enough heat,
the control valve assumes the flame has gone out and shuts off. I'd start by
replacing that. If that doesn't work, the next thing is the high temp cutout
The burner is enclosed, so it's the O2 level near the burner, bit the room. Last
thing is to replace it.
Um, the logs do not burn. In fact, you may remove them and just watch
the burner assembly that is underneath them. Vacuum everything out after
removal, and re-install safety cover (front glass with bezel). Re-test
and watch the main burner. With luck maybe the orifice was getting clogged.
I doubt that, though. If possible, can you see if there are two probes?
One for the pilot and one for the burner? They should be mounted to the
same bracket that the pilot is attached to. If so, I don't think the one
for the burner is causing you a problem. If there are two, or if there
is only one, then the pilot probe needs to be replaced. The proper term
for the probe is "thermopile". This device creates electricity, and
current, from the heat of the pilot (very low DC volts, and 350+ milliamps.)
Don't be scared of it. This probe has a cable with two wires coming out of
it at the gas valve. There should be what are called female spade connectors
on the end of these wires. They plug onto male spade connectors on the
gas valve. If you want to replace the thermopile yourself, it is quite
Make note of how everything is connected, draw it out, and take pictures
if possible, taking care to take note of the wire colors and where they
go on the gas valve. If you are not mechanically inclined, get a friend
to uninstall the thermopile. This is usually simple and straight forward,
but one never knows. Take to a local supply house that carries parts for
your stove. Make note of model and serial number, and it probably would be
a good idea to call around first. Purchase a new thermopile and install.
As a safety precaution, turn of the gas to the stove, the valve not inside
the stove, remembering to turn it back on after installing the new thermopile.
If this is the problem, then everything should work. If not, then you will
have to call a repair man and that is where the cash flow begins. Hopefully
your burner valve is okay and it is only a thermopile. You might try looking
up "troubleshooting burner gas valve" online and get some better instructions,
with pictures. Entering you stoves make and model number might give some
Anyway, good luck.
(note to self: Don't post when sleepy...)
On Monday, November 25, 2013 5:15:42 PM UTC-5, Demhi Moss wrote:
There are various gas valves for these. So we would need more specifics to
troubleshoot details. All of them have safety features designed to turn t
he gas off if the pilot light fails or if the logs go out. That's to preve
nt the buildup of gas. Sounds like your problem is with the safety system.
Often it can be as simple as the sensor not being in the flame. But ther
e can also be bad sensors as well as bad gas valves. The model number off
the gas valve would tell us what type of valve you have which generally als
o tells us what type of safety system it has. Don't bypass the safety syst
em even if that seems tempting.
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