Need Advice on LP Fireplace Gas .Log Insert

The problem with the logs is they will not stay lit. I can tell if it is not going to work because the pilot light will not stay. If the pilot light does stay lit then the logs will only burn for 20 or 30 seconds. This occurs in a rather large room so I don't see the gas cutting off due to increased CO or decreased O2. I would appreciate any advice on this subject. All I can think of is haing the logs replaced. Should I do this myself or have someone else (a pro) do it. All advice would be greatly appreciated as would sggestions for help in selecting high efficentcy gas logs. Thank you.
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Demhi Moss wrote:

Hmmm, Is your thermocouple good?
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The most common problem is the thermocouple. If it doesn't detect enough heat, the control valve assumes the flame has gone out and shuts off. I'd start by replacing that. If that doesn't work, the next thing is the high temp cutout switch.

The burner is enclosed, so it's the O2 level near the burner, bit the room. Last thing is to replace it.
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Um, the logs do not burn. In fact, you may remove them and just watch the burner assembly that is underneath them. Vacuum everything out after removal, and re-install safety cover (front glass with bezel). Re-test and watch the main burner. With luck maybe the orifice was getting clogged.
I doubt that, though. If possible, can you see if there are two probes? One for the pilot and one for the burner? They should be mounted to the same bracket that the pilot is attached to. If so, I don't think the one for the burner is causing you a problem. If there are two, or if there is only one, then the pilot probe needs to be replaced. The proper term for the probe is "thermopile". This device creates electricity, and current, from the heat of the pilot (very low DC volts, and 350+ milliamps.) Don't be scared of it. This probe has a cable with two wires coming out of it at the gas valve. There should be what are called female spade connectors on the end of these wires. They plug onto male spade connectors on the gas valve. If you want to replace the thermopile yourself, it is quite easy.
Make note of how everything is connected, draw it out, and take pictures if possible, taking care to take note of the wire colors and where they go on the gas valve. If you are not mechanically inclined, get a friend to uninstall the thermopile. This is usually simple and straight forward, but one never knows. Take to a local supply house that carries parts for your stove. Make note of model and serial number, and it probably would be a good idea to call around first. Purchase a new thermopile and install.
As a safety precaution, turn of the gas to the stove, the valve not inside the stove, remembering to turn it back on after installing the new thermopile. If this is the problem, then everything should work. If not, then you will have to call a repair man and that is where the cash flow begins. Hopefully your burner valve is okay and it is only a thermopile. You might try looking up "troubleshooting burner gas valve" online and get some better instructions, with pictures. Entering you stoves make and model number might give some results.
Anyway, good luck.
(note to self: Don't post when sleepy...)
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On Monday, November 25, 2013 5:15:42 PM UTC-5, Demhi Moss wrote:

There are various gas valves for these. So we would need more specifics to troubleshoot details. All of them have safety features designed to turn t he gas off if the pilot light fails or if the logs go out. That's to preve nt the buildup of gas. Sounds like your problem is with the safety system. Often it can be as simple as the sensor not being in the flame. But ther e can also be bad sensors as well as bad gas valves. The model number off the gas valve would tell us what type of valve you have which generally als o tells us what type of safety system it has. Don't bypass the safety syst em even if that seems tempting.
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