Lighted Switch

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I have outside lights that are controlled by inside switches. The lights cannot be seen from the inside.
I have often left these lights on for days, inadvertently.
I know there are illuminated switches that are lit when the lights are off. But I cannot find switches that are lit when the lights are *ON*.
How can I tell when my outside lights are on?
Thank you
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Walter
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Walter R. wrote:

There are switches with small indicator lights; here's an example (found via a quick google search of "light switch" "pilot light"):
http://www.smarthome.com/4246.html
You should be able to find one locally. Ask for a switch/pilot light combination.

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CJT wrote:

Hi, Even HD has it. You you use jumper on the switch either way you want. Tony
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Tony said: "Even HD has it. You you use jumper on the switch either way you want."
I was so excited about this post, I took my cover plate off my recent HD-purchased Leviton lighted switch... only to find that there is no jumper. Hmmm, I guess I got the cheapy brand. I too wish my lighted switch would light when the light is on, not off. Seems backwards to me.
kbmcdowell
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switch either way

off my recent

there is no

my lighted

backwards to

Obviously, it's designed for room lights, where it helps you find the switch in the dark.
Bob
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kbmcdowell wrote:

The jumperable kind are the ones where the lamp is separate from the switch. These are fit a duplex outlet faceplate, with the switch in one of the outlet positions and the lamp in the other. Of course decora models exist too.
The ones where the switch handle itself glows are hardwired either to be "illuminated switches" (glows when load is off) or "pilot light switches" (glows when load is on, which is what you want). Often they're 3-way because it's with 3-ways that you can't tell on from off by the position of the switch.
Chip C
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kbmcdowell wrote:

They're that way so you can see the switch in a darkened room (so you can turn the lights on, at which point there is no longer a need for the switch being lit). Another reason is that there's no need to connect the switch to neutral for it to work (leakage through the load is enough).
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So when such a switch is "off", it is not really off, it is leaking a little current through to the load? How much power does the switch use when "off"?
Cheers, Wayne
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Wayne Whitney wrote:

Very little -- I think it's probably around 0.05 watt. You could research the power used by Ne-2 bulbs, which are, I think, similar to what's used, if you want a better number.
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CJT wrote:

I have a pilot-light switch (light is separate from the switch handle), I'm pretty sure a Leviton, that says it's 1/35 W, which is under 0.03 W. Leviton doesn't seem to show this info for their lighted-handle switches on their web site. I'll bet it's less.
Chip C
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Chip C wrote:

Perhaps they don't say on the "lit while off" version" because it will vary (slightly) according to what it's hooked to.
The current through an Ne-2 (or similar) will depend on its series resistor -- FWIW, my guesstimate was based on my recollection that we used to use 147k +/- resistors with them, and my further recollection that once fired the voltage across one is about 60V (leaving about 60V across the resistor) but if a brighter glow is desired a smaller value could be used. If my recollection proves wrong, I won't be surprised, because it hasn't been an issue for me in probably 20 years.
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CJT wrote:

FWIW, I stumbled upon my old GE Glow Lamp Manual today, and it has a table in the back listing nominal wattage for various versions. A standard brightness NE-2e/v/d is 1/15 watt. The high brightness NE-2h is 1/4 watt.
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It might be fun to make a PC with a roomful of NE-2s... an RC clock and lots of ring counters and flip flops :-)
Nick
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On 25 Nov 2005 01:19:21 -0500, snipped-for-privacy@ece.villanova.edu wrote:

I remember seeing a wristwatch made with NIXIE tubes.
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snipped-for-privacy@ece.villanova.edu wrote:

That would be awesome.
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Many such lights use a NE-2 bulb which is 1/4 watt.
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For regular toggle style, try the following part numbers
====== Leviton
(15 amp) (clear)        (red)        (green) 1201-PLC    1201-PLR    1201-PLG    (single pole) 1202-PLC    1202-PLR    1202-PLG    (double pole) 1203-PLC    1203-PLR    12030PLG    (3 way)
(20 amp) (clear)        (red)        (green) 1221-PLC,     1221-PLR,     1221-PLG     (single pole) 1222-PLC,     1222-PLR,     1222-PLG     (double pole) 1223-PLC,     1223-PLR,     1223-PLG     (3 way)
======= Bryant
4801-PLR120     (red 15 amp single pole)
4901-PLC120    (clear 20 amp single pole) 4901-PLG120    (green 20 amp single pole) 4901-PLR120    (red 20 amp single pole)
4903-PLC120    (clear 20 amp 3-way) 4903-PLG120    (green 20 amp 3-way) 4903-PLR120    (red 20 amp 3-way)
4902-PLG120    (red 20 amp double pole)
Decora style
9901-PLI120    (ivory single pole 20 amp) 9901-PLW120    (white single pole 20 amp)
9903-PLI120    (ivory 3-way 20 amp) 9903-PLW120    (white 3-way 20 amp)
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switches. The lights

the lights are off.

are *ON*.

If the switch light is off, the outside light is on.
Bob
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Bob wrote:

Hi, How about making it come on/off by sunlight. On with sundown(dark), off with sun up(light). Some you can adjust sensitivity. There is even an adaptor which goes in between light socket and lamp. Tony
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a double pole double throw switch and an indoor outlet switched by it would allow any choices of lamps or nightlights to show power on indoors on one side of the circuit while illuminating the outdoor lights. alternative: an old outdoor van side view mirror might be mounted just outside your window to see down an alleyway or around a corner.
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