Lawn Mower Compression & Dislocated Shoulders

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It will be obvious. In fact you may be able to tell if the key is partially sheared without even removing the flywheel. just look at the shaft/flywheel contact area. If there's a square aluminum 'key' there and it's still square, it's not the problem. But, most likely you'll have to remove the flywheel to find out for sure.
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I don't recall seeing the key being obvious; until I removed the retaining nut from the flywheel.
You can test for movement in the flywheel (FW). Remove the plug wire for safety. With some help, hold the blade steady and rotate the FW to observe for any movement back and forth. It is not totally accurate, but a seriously damaged shear key will be obvious. YMMV.
Small fractures in the key will not be obvious, as well!
About the hammering on the shaft. I use a block of wood to deaden the blow AND I always leave the loosened nut on the shaft. It prevents damaged to the thread.
-- Oren
"I don't have anything against work. I just figure, why deprive somebody who really loves it."
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Oren wrote:
<snipped>

And it keeps the flywheel from flying off if you're pulling up on it real hard, and whacking you in the forehead. (DAMHIKT)
Jeff
--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat \'57 EE)
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On Sun, 16 Sep 2007 12:32:14 -0400, Jeff Wisnia

How _old_ is your T-shirt? :-/
-- Oren
..through the use of electrical or duct tape, achieve the configuration in the photo..
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It does sound like the timing has advanced. And the only way for that to happen is for the key in the flywheel to shear and the flywheel slip on the crank. I'd check that first.
s
OR you have some really piss poor gas. <G>

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The last time I had one do that, the blade was loose from the crank shaft. Flip the mower on its side, and see if the blade is tight.
The other person's suggestion about flywheel out of time, that's also very possible.
--
.
Christopher A. Young
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On 17 Sep, 09:18, "Stormin Mormon"

Thank you for ignoring the 3rd reply in this thread. :-)
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It's what I do best. What did you say?
--
.
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