Lawn mower blade sharpening


Does a lawn mower with a sharp blade perform any better than the one with a dull blade? I sharpened my blade today, but, unfortunately, all grass was mowed so I cannot easily compare. Also to what extent should a blade be sharpened.
i
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Ignoramus12143 wrote:

yes, it is kinder to the grass than a dull blade because it cuts the grass cleanly instead of beating the blades of grass off. it should be as sharp as you can get it but don't put any shallower of an edge on it than it came with or it will be easily dulled again. don't forget to balance it before you bolt it back on.
nate
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thank you. Yes I did sharpen it, did not make a shallower angle, and balanced it also. I appreciate your thoughts. I have a problem which is that grass in certain areas of my yard is very dense and my lawnmower stalls in it. It is a "6.5 HP" Toro lawnmower.
i
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On May 3, 9:37 pm, Ignoramus12143 <ignoramus12...@NOSPAM. 12143.invalid> wrote:

it stalls because it is a mulcher. get one that spews the grass out the side and you'll fly thru this chore. i have the same problem. nothing to do with blade sharpness. ...thehick
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Hm, thanks. I have a side port with a spring loaded door. If I figure out a way to keep it open, it would function as a side thrower (though I question safety of that). Thanks for food for thought.
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On May 3, 10:21 pm, Ignoramus12143 <ignoramus12...@NOSPAM. 12143.invalid> wrote:

It probably came with a little plastic chute that would fit over that opening (and hold the door open.) You need to find one of those and that should help. Of course then you will have to rake your yard after you are done, but at least the cutting will go faster.
good luck,
nate
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replaced it with a FWD 6.5hp, only I don't engage the drive. Goes through long grass beautifully. The extra power makes a big difference.
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Mine IS a "6.5 HP", although, given shenanigans over HP that various motor manufacturers pulled, I am not sure what is the real horsepower. (Toro self propelled, 5 years old)
My own opinion is that a sharper blade might help marginally, due to less energy expended per grass stem cut, but the real issue is that I need more morsepower to cut grass that dense.
That area always had very dense grass.
i
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two options.
mow more often quit watering the damn thing.
--
Steve Barker




"Ignoramus12143" <ignoramus12143@NOSPAM.12143.invalid> wrote in message
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wrote:

I do not water the damn thing. It just grows there.
i
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How do you balance blades ?
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Brent Bolin wrote:

Either with a little conical blade balancer thing which should be available for cheap from your local lawn and garden emporium, or you could be real frugal and just hold it balanced on the edge of a square screwdriver shank to check balance. You only have to balance them statically as they are so thin that dynamic balancing like you'd do for a car wheel/tire is massive overkill.
nate
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On Thu, 03 May 2007 20:23:26 -0500, Ignoramus12143

I was told that a sharp rotory blade means cleaner cut edges on the grass. Less browning at the tips, and entry points for fungus.
tom @ www.How-To-Lose-Pounds.com
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On Thu, 03 May 2007 20:23:26 -0500, Ignoramus12143

A sharp tool is always better, mower blades are no exception. A dull blade shreds a grass blade, a sharp blade cuts a grass blade. A shredded grass blade is more prone to disease. I sharpen my blade twice a year, maybe every 50 hours of use. Make sure the blade is balanced after sharpening else you may end up with vibration issues and power loss.
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