Watched all the video's on you tube and read everything I can find. Some say
to put the edge on first, and route it even to the top and some say to put
the top on first, and put the edge band up to the bottom of the top
laminate, then route it. Which is best for a countertop that has had the
original laminate top removed and a new one is to be installed..
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My view (no pun intended) is that the top should go on first, then trimmed
to match the edge. If you do it in reverse, edge first, then you'll forever
be looking at the edge of the laminate as you skin your dinner (opossum
Edge goes on first, so the top will lap over it and you won't see the
edge of the edge.
The edge is trimmed with the straight bit, the top gets trimmed with
the 22 degree bit. That will take away a little less than the total
thickness of the top material giving a clean reveal..
On 8/1/2012 11:35 PM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Edgeband first. Trim flush with top substrate. Top goes over the edge
band. Finish with flush or bevel bit. Use a good quality file to
drawfile the edge to remove the wire edge. You will need the file
anyway as the router bit won't get all the way to the wall, etc.
This is what I have been reading, however, my buddy who says he has been
putting laminate on museum displays for 30 years said that if I do it this
way, due to the old top being removed and it not being perfectly smooth,the
router bearing will waver and thiw will cause the edge band will waver and
gaps will show. He says he always put the top on, then applied the edge
tight to the top which was overhung a bit, then routed the top piece to
match the edge band. Does this make sense?
He did offer to help me. This is my quandry. I don't want to offend him by
suggesting that he is wrong,
because I know he is a very good craftsman and the way he explained it to me
made sense, but I just have never
heard of anyone doing it that way. He also uses visqueen instead of dowel
I wrote a good response that never made it.
If the substrate is gummy from the old adhesive, it will complicate
doing the edgeband first and can make some sense to what your friend is
telling you though I've not had huge problems with it.
Overhanging the top and running the edgeband to it can certainly work.
It will require a straight and true cut with a good square edge to seal
properly. The only way I know to get it is using a Virutex slitter
which your friend may well have. YOu can get close with a really good
blade in a table saw, but it is a bit of a dance if your pieces are
long. It is going to take two or more to deal with a long chunk of
edgeband and get it into postion against the previously installed top.
You will need to mask the underside of the overhanging top or the excess
glue will give you fits. I prefer the solid carbide tips rather than
the ball bearing ones. If a bearing ever hangs it will burn the formica
in a heart beat, especially if it is a light color.
I don't see a problem using visqueen though I've never tried it. I like
to stick the center first and work each way. Make sure to pressure any
joints if you have them. I have the slats from an old wide blade
venetian blind that I like to use because it is easy to stack them to
and from the job. They are sure getting harder to find.
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