Insufficient warm air in a far bedroom


The master bedroom is close to the heater on the attic and has two vents. The air coming out is strong and hot. Another room is far from the heater and has only one vent. The air is weak and the room is cold. What's the simplest solution to make that room warmer without making the master bedroom too hot? Thanks.
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Yong Huang wrote:

Close the vent a bit in the room where the air is strong and that will force more air to the other room. This is "balancing" a common way of evening out the heat in each room.
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On Fri, 8 Jan 2010 20:04:53 -0800 (PST), Yong Huang

Try a product like this
http://www.atrendyhome.com/durebofan.html
Home Depot and other stores sell similar items.
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On Jan 8, 11:23 pm, snipped-for-privacy@mucks.net wrote:

Also saw similar ones on Smarthome.com I think. First thing to do though, as someone suggested, is inspect the duct work to the extent that you can. Common for crappy duct tape to let go and a joint to come loose.
There are also auxilliary blowers that you can insert into a duct. You cut a square hole in the duct and part of a squirrel cage blower goes inside. I did that on one of mine and increased the air flow to several registers at the farthest end of the house. Mine is direct wired, but I think I saw ones that were self actuated too. Probably not that suited to your application, but worth noting.
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On Jan 8, 10:23 pm, snipped-for-privacy@mucks.net wrote: ...

Thank you. I like it. The only "problem" is the unsightly power cord that runs from the wall outlet to it, on the wall and then on the ceiling. By the way, why does it have heat and cold two settings? Isn't it just a fan to pull air in? Does the little fan automatically stop running shortly after my heater or A/C blower stops running?
I went to the attic and checked the hose from the furnace all the way to the vent. I didn't find any leak or collapse. I didn't cut open the hose and check or blow air into it.
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If you have plenty of airflow into the near room, then blocking part of the near-room register will force more air into the far room. Also, do you know what to look for for dampers in the ducts themselves. All you will see is a small projection from the ductwork on opposite sides of the duct. If you turn the projection, it will turn a baffle inside the duct to control the air flow. If you think you find a damper, have someone go to the far room and check the airflow as you rotate the damper, You may need to use a pair of large pliers to turn the damper. But, is this a new problem, or something that has always been in existence since you owned the house, are you the original owner?
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wrote:

Unfortunately I didn't find a damper. I checked the entire hose from the furnace to the register.
The house was built in 1990. This is an old problem. (In summer, the far room is warmer. But there's a ceiling fan so it's not a big problem.) The hot master bedroom is close to the furnace and has two registers. The small bedroom is far but has only one. I already closed one register in the master and one in the hallway between the two rooms. There may be a difference now but it's hard to tell for sure.
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Can you install an extra duct from the furnace to the far bedroom with an extra register? That will route more warm air to the far room than anything you can do with register balancing. If you can't install a new duct then replace the old duct with a larger one and use a larger register. Also, insulate the ducts to that bedroom so the air will be as warm as possible when it gets there. Any insulation will work - I use fiberglass batts - wrap around and use supports for the bottom.
You may also need to install an extra return air duct from the cold room. You can't get more air into a room unless you take more air out. Usually there is enough capacity to let the extra air out of the room but if there is a tight door and the walls are tight then more return air capacity will be required to get the benefit of the new warm air duct. It is a system and all the parts need to work together. Cheapest solution may be to install a grate in the door or interior wall of that room to let the extra air out. Or just cut off 1/2 inch from the bottom of the door.
Register balancing is difficult because when you restrict the air flow into one room the excess air then goes equally to all other rooms. The excess air won't go to a particular room unless you run around the house and restrict all the other registers. That will take a good long while to get balanced and then sooner or later someone will come along and undo all your hard work by opening up some or all of the registers. If you restrict any registers make a mark or scratch on each one so you can easily see if it has been moved and can re-set them without repeating the whole exercise.
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I solved a similar problem in our bonus room by replacing most of the 6" flex with 8". I increased the size of the takeoffs to 8". Close to the registers I spliced back to the orignal 6" with reducers. Made a difference. Anything that reduces the resistance helps. Closing closer vents is ok but generally just increases the total resistance of the whole system.
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Be sure to go into the attic and check the duct to be sure that it is connected properly and has no leaks and is not crushed.
--

Roger Shoaf

About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
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Roger Shoaf wrote:

install had gates in the ducts for balancing. I know there are some in my house.
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That was the problem I had. Two of the ducts were crushed and the air was blowing into the duct's insulation. From the outward appearance the ducts looked fine but on the inside the insulation had collapsed.
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Master Betty wrote:

seem to be good for 50-60 years like metal duct.
-- aem sends...
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Another vote for check the ductwork connections.

Assuming this was not always the case it sounds a likely candidate. Often connections/joints come loose. Reattach with good quality HVAC tape, not run of the mill duct tape (ignore my handle). The wider the better.
Also possible a critter got in and did some HVAC chewing work to warm his new home.
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