We just replaced our 40 year old, badly cracked, asphalt driveway with
pavers. The edge of the concrete garage floor has a lip that slopes
down to the driveway. The lip is about 3" wide and drops about 1.5".
The garage door closes just before the lip so that all of the drop is
outside the garage when the door is closed.
The old asphalt driveway had a crown about 1 foot from the egde of the
garage, probably as a water barrier.
With the pavers, the grade is continous right up to the edge or the
garage floor, which leaves the edge of the last row of pavers sticking
up about .75". I am concerned that this will be a good place to stub a
toe or stumble.
The guys who installed the pavers suggested getting something they
called "self-leveling concrete epoxy" to fill in the trough from the
end of the pavers for about 2". The problem is that they could not
agree on what the product was called and whether it is a liquid or a
Can someone suggest a product that I can use to fill in this little
trough that will (a) look like the concrete garage floor (blend in)
and (b) adhere to the existing concrete?
Agreed. Call them back and make them re-do it right. And if your old
driveway had a hump for water diversion, you may need one of those slit
drain things at the foot of the concrete apron by the door, draining
sideways to daylight or a drywell, off to the side of the driveway. Does
the driveway slope toward the garage, by any chance?
First heavy rain will tell you for sure.
It sounds like the old garage door had a one foot wide concrete
section that was pitched and extended out past where the door closed.
That is normal. What is not clear is, did they remove this and
bring the pavers all the way to the door edge? If so, the easy
solution is to remove some pavers and repour a new concrete section.
If they left the concrete section there and have the pavers sticking
up 3/4" where they meet it, then you have a bigger problem. If there
is enough pitch, you could still go with the first suggestion,
removing the existing one foot section of concrete, then repouring it
to meet the pavers. That assumes you still have enough pitch so
water doesnt' flow into the garage.
Either way, whoever did this blew it and they should be responsible
for fixing it. Being so stupid to not have the first course of
pavers meet the existing critical boundary, one can only wonder what
else they did that was incorrect and could lead to even bigger
The pavers should be flush or below the outside edge of the concrete
lip to prevent wanter/snow/ice from flooding into the garage. They
did a piss-poor job and are trying to get you to fix it.
Make that three votes for a bad job that needs to be corrected.
Make it four votes. I get minor ruts in pavers where tires track and my
pavers said they will come back and repair again for second year running -
ruts getting smaller each year. I wouldn't have complained but they called
and asked. They said warranty does not matter, their job will look good no
matter what it takes.
I appreciate the concern expressed by everyone about the pavers being
installed incorrectly, but I'd really like an answer to my question
regarding the best filler material and method.
As for the installation, they did what I asked them to do. The pavers
are at exactly the same elevation as the old asphalt was. We've never
had a problem with drainage or water in the garage. I ran a lot of
water over the pavers and none gets into the garage. It is draining
exactly as it did with the asphalt. It's actually draining a little
better than before. We used to get a bit of a puddle in one corner.
That doesn't happen now.
The "gap" I am trying to fill is exactly the same as it was with the
asphalt. The difference is that the asphalt was rounded so the gap did
not have a sharp edge. The pavers have a square edge, which is more of
In any case, they told me what they were going to do and I signed off
on it. I can call them, but I don't think it's fair to say it was done
Okay, alternative theory here- clue is the rounded asphalt (which one
side of my driveway also has)- has maybe your garage apron settled since
it was poured? Even if it was originally sloped, maybe it slopes a lot
more now? Proper cure may be mud-jacking or replacing the existing apron.
But as to your question- no, none of that filler or patch stuff will do
what you need. That apron has years of rubber and oil grime on it, and
nothing will bond well to it. And the edge of the patch will be thin and
flake away. If you can demo the old apron yourself, getting a new one
poured will be cheap, since it is basically self-forming at this point.
Box in the ends if needed, add strips of joint material along the long
sides, and screed off to garage floor and pavers to get the slope.
On Thu, 15 Apr 2010 17:19:01 -0700 (PDT), "hr(bob) firstname.lastname@example.org"
The pavers are mostly concrete with a fairly thin top layer (.5-1").
If I grind them, the concrete will show through.
They *are* flush with (or just slightly below) the high point of the
apron. A level placed anywhere across the full width of the garage
slows a constant gradual slope in the right direction. The problem is
that the front edge of the garage is rounded and drops 1-2". If they
made it flush with the bottom, the slope would be wrong. If they make
it flush with the hiugh point, which is what they did, then there is
the gap that we have now. There was also a gap with the asphalt, but
it was less noticeable because they put in a crown about 2-3 feet down
the driveway. I didn't want a crown in the pavers.
The garage is 50-60 years old. I don't think it hasn't settled in the
20 years we've been here. The overall grade is still good. Water in
the garage drains out and rain never flows in. There is a bit of a
slope to the right, which is where the pavers form the largest edge.
Not even if I grind or sand it down a bit?
Yeah, I was worried about that.
The garage floor slopes very gently from back to front. About an inch
before it gets to the back edge of the front wall (ie, the front edge
of the garage door when closed), it starts into a rounded edge about
3" wide that drops the elevation 1-2" or so and protrudes 1-2" beyond
the front of the garage door.
I would need to cut the concrete for the full width of the garage and
about 2-3" deep. Probably just where the rounded corner starts, which
is about in the middle of where the garage door meets the floor.
To correct this properly: Cut the asphalt with a concrete saw to make
it square (take off the rounded edge). Then install another row or two
of pavers to make everything flush from the concrete to the asphalt
(not so much level as FLUSH).
This may be more than you want to do, but it is the correct way.
You want to look for epoxy polymer concrete, or epoxy resin cement.
This stuff is not cheap, but is tough. They come in one gallon or
five gallon containers; are two part systems (base plus hardener)
and need to be mixed well before application. You need to find
a product that is castable.
As for the installation: Either you, or they, goofed. Adjoining
grades should meet at the beveled elevation (end third of radius
from finished grade) not finished grade. The minimum that should
have been done was to have the abutting pavers cut at a 45 degree
angle to match the concrete's radius. In your case you stated that
there was a 1.5" drop and that is where the 45 degree cuts should
have been made.
The last row of pavers may still be cut.
If you plan on filling with epoxy the minimum thickness you will
want is .75 inch on the edge adjoining the concrete, and do not
just pour the epoxy in the gap. You need to form the edge. There
are various ways of doing this and is a different subject.
There are two products that we use and have excellent results on
the type of work you are considering. You do need to get the old
concrete basically clean or abraded.
look at the Planitop listings. We've been using Planitop X
There are other primers and bonding agents - Larsen's is one of
the best, but freeze/thaw cycles will require rework every few
years. The Jet and Mapei have been holding about 3 years at this
point with no signs of degradation.
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
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