How tall should outdoor antenna be?

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On Nov 3, 8:50?am, snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net wrote:

to do this RIGHT google antenna tower, very pricey but effective. in any case your limited to about 50 miles because of the curvature of the earth. unless you live on the very top of a hill.
its really easier to get satellite or cable tv, all channels on a single intergrated guide, add DVR and your all set.
with no outside antenna to maintain.
the OP is looking at 300 to a thousand bucks for OTA channels, plus will still need satellite or cable.
the reason most people dont have OTA antennas in rural areas? its not cosat effective..
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snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote: ...

BS. :(
--


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if your going to spend 500 to a thousand bucks for JUST the OTA channels and still spend money for cable like channels its just not cost effective. remember were talking about a rural area.
and how many really have high def sets? if you do congrats and obviously costs arent one of your big concerns.
now go get a digital video recorder, live with it a month, its way more important that high def..
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I have a large roof mounted antenna which is only a few feet above the roof. I can pull in TV and FM from 70 miles away. I have rotator but never use it. Most of my viewing is with a satellite dish because there are no NBC or FOX stations that I can receive.
---MIKE---

>> (44 15' N - Elevation 1580')
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snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

I _AM_ in a rural area (more so than OP by far) and certainly don't spend anything at all like that...
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well OP began by deciding for a large high mounted on pole antenna which indicates high costs.
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snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

40-ft of well-tubing and an antenna ain't much...
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a premium high gain antenna like a channelmaster can easily be a a few hundred with antenna and rotor, now add pipe, mounts to home and hardware......
I had a friend do a install in a poor OTA area he had near a grand tied up, and reception was marginal
incidently marginal analog reception gets you a fuzzy or ghosty or noisey picture.
with digital its perfect...... or pixeled blocky looking or blank screen.
remember the OP said this was for a rural area
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snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote: ...

...
I just replaced the antenna w/ a long range fringe C-M in February after the ice collapsed the old one. Was less than $200 for largest/highest gain. Two sections of 20' tubing from the local used ironmonger aren't more than $20/ea, if that. Set 'em up and you're done. Any other odds and ends of hardware are dime and nickel stuff...
Will last for years, no additional fees/cost. Antenna may suffer damage and need replacement from weather--how frequent depends on severity of local conditions. We're in a very high wind area subject to lots of hail, extreme t-storms, etc., but still antenna typically will last 10 years or more. The tower has been bent over once in 30 years by a combination blizzard/ice, but a torch and it was straightened up at no additional outlay.
Want pictures? Anybody who can't/won't put something like that together isn't much of a candidate for "rural" living... :(
--
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dpb wrote:

Hi, Any precautionary thing for lightning strike?
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Tony Hwang wrote:

...
....
I'd ground it separately if it were mounted on the house, but this is set directly into the ground so nothing other than the arrestor on the antenna leadin. I still on occasion will disconnect the input to the set if there's a real heavy lightning storm real close, just as precaution. It's been in place since mid-70s and no problems to date.
--
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ALL GROUNDS MUST BE UNIFIED!!! all tied together preferably with a driven ground rod at the pole.
Otherwise grounds may not be equal and touching a VCR say, or TV could give you a nasty or lethal shock.
NOT COMMON BUT CAN HAPPEN!
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snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

Plonk...
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do that if you want BUT its a real issue, all grounds in a home MUST BE UNIFIED, thats why the ground rods for main service, homes neutral, telephone NID and everything else must be tied together.
lets imagine they arent, a lightining strike on something might create a voltage potential between grounds.
I used to install satellite dishes its not a common trouble but could create a real hazard. heck even building lightning arrestors must be unified to everything
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snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

The bloody TV _TOWER_ is isolated, doofus...
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ahh its connected to the home by the coax, do you ground the coax properly?
besides which in a storm the antenna might come lose and hit a electrified line. I saw a chimney mount antenna blown across a roof
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snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

Not where it is, it won't. Again, it is NOT ON THE HOUSE, got it?
The coax an the antenna are electrically isolated, else the antenna isn't an antenna, it's a ground pole.
Give it up, you were wrong to start with and you're just getting more and more off base.
Next you'll be telling me it's K&T wiring... :(
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you are WRONG, the COAX ground is also a antenna GROUND.
GO READ THE NEC ABOUT PROPER GROUNDING OF ANTENNAS, SATELLITE DISHES ETC!!!!!!!!!!
all grounds must be unified
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the coax must be grounded right where it enters the building, and beyond that coax outer braid is grounded to tv chassis this is done because outer braid grounding stops interference from being picked up on inner conductor.
now in a storm or any time a ground potential difference can exist, where someone touching a tv can get a nasty shock.
this is why all grounds must be unified.
please would a electrician cite the NEC for this incompetent.
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snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

...
I have not said one thing about the stinkin' coax except that there is a lightning arrestor installed. Everything else is your made up "what can I do to show I'm so smart and this is unsafe?" as is your typical post.
You started off on the BS about $2000 for a OTA antenna and not used because "aren't cost-effective". I simply pointed out that is not so.
Everything past that from your side is simply something you've made up.
--
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