Grounding wire for house. Is this right?

You only need a continuous conductor to the primary grounding electrode. You can connect "bonding jumpers" with any listed method as long as each path is using the required size wire.

This is from the NEC handbook

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(extra credit if you catch the absurd thing in the code) ;-)

Reply to
gfretwell
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I dont think I have ever seen a well casing used as a ground, but it's probably one of the best grounds someone could have. But it needs some sort of attachment welded to the pipe to connect the wire, since most casings are just plain pipe.

My well is a steel casing, but its not used as a ground. It's about 200 feet from my house, but near my garage, but the garage has no water pipes. But all my pipes are underground poly-plastic, right up to the house. Inside the house, the original pipes were copper and they were grounded, but they are no longer used since I've changed to CPVC pipes. And the drain pipes were always PVC. The remaining copper pipes which froze one too many times before I lived here, still exist underneath the house, so they are still grounded.

Reply to
Paintedcow

You can have all the electrodes you want

Reply to
gfretwell

The idea started when simply connecting to the metal water pipe picked up the well casing. Plastic made that moot and I doubt anyone has used a metal well casing in years. they all seem to be PVC. They do make pipe clamps that will work though if you have metal and want to use it. That far away I would not call it "available".

Reply to
gfretwell

10 ga is plenty for lightning, the wave form is a damped sinusoid.

Now, a bolted fault from the power line would be a different story!

Reply to
TimR

The #2 or better for the ground ring, while everything else is #4? Other than that, I give up.

Reply to
trader_4

We have a winner. (email me an address for your prize)

Reply to
gfretwell

snipped-for-privacy@aol.com posted for all of us...

I need about 8 on my head and one on my willy. Would that suffice?

Reply to
Tekkie®

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