It seems to not turn off, keeps buzzing, at the end of the raising or
lowering of the door. I twiddled with it once to get it working again,
but now its cold it has failed twice this month same way.
My question is, are the replacements simple enough to do? I don't need
to touch the door or tracks or springs, but I have never done this
before. My current one is a chain drive All-O-Matic. Inside the box
there is a motor driving a wheel with a belt. The door is a double.
The problem with getting someone else to do it is that I have to wait
in for them, taking time off work, and still end up spending 4 hours
standing around doing nothing. AND paying them!
Plus, here in Princeton, no-one wants to come out to your house for
less than $500.
I will have a go. Does anyone know who makes the All-o-matic? I can't
see a brand name on there anywhere!
Exactly how did you twiddle? Did you adjust the lower limit of travel?
There opener has a switch for this, actuated by a gear mechanism off
the motor, probably a screw jack. If adjustment doesn't help, unplug
the power (IMPORTANT!) and look for this mechanism. The switch may
have a dirty contact. Clean it by rubbing an alcohol-soaked cloth or
piece of cardboard against it (brown side of a cereal box), but do not
use sandpaper or a file.
An opener takes 2-6 hours to install, and a new one can give improved
safety, thanks to the electric eye across the threshhold. Security
will also be better and prevent burglars from opening the door by
copying the remote codes (copies are useless) or trying all of them
(there are too many).
I didn't adjust anything, I simple tapped here and there and then it
was ok for a few months.
What happens is that it seems not to know to stop pulling or pushing,
the motor keeps on buzzing really loud. It must be the switch that gets
hit by the stop on the chain, but its really hard to tell what's
happening, it goes really fast!
Could you tell me what the limit controls look like? I have had the
cover off and stared at the thing for a while, but it was confusing, as
when its opening its moving so fast I cant see whats happening very
Thanks for the Sears advice! I hear their Liftmaster (= Craftsman) is
Look at the limit adjustments, and see where they connect internally to
the overhead unit.
Or snap some clear photos (emphasis on "clear") of the insides and post
them at a place like Glowfoto.com or Flickr.com so everybody can look
Garage door openers are designed to shut off after 20-30 seconds, in
case the travel limit switches or safety mechanisms fail, and it's
possible this is what yours is doing. I would try adjusting the lower
limit, and if it's working normally you should be able to make the door
stop several inches above the bottom. Otherwise I would unplug the
power and look for obvious mechanical flaws. If none can be seen,
remove the circuit board and examine it under bright light and a
magnifying glass for cracked traces and solder. Solder cracks can be
difficult to see, and it may be best to simply resolder all the joints
for connectors, switches, and large or heavy components. Use a
conventional 25-40W iron, not a Cold Heat iron or a soldering gun. If
possible, post a picture of the opener and its circuit board.
finding new ones. Be sure they match. If you have checked on top of
opener to make sure the stop switch areas are not gummed up with
grease when it gets cold and gets thick. Clean with electronic parts
cleaner. unplug operator first though. See if this helps before
messing with or replacing microswitchs
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Thanks again for all the help, I have just bought one from Sears. There
were other things wrong with the old one, and although I generally fix
things like this, they seem cheap enough, and the new one has a sensor
in it, which will be good for the kid. Installation for $130 from
Sears, lifetime guarantee on the opener!
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