Garage door opened fails in cold weather

It seems to not turn off, keeps buzzing, at the end of the raising or lowering of the door. I twiddled with it once to get it working again, but now its cold it has failed twice this month same way.
My question is, are the replacements simple enough to do? I don't need to touch the door or tracks or springs, but I have never done this before. My current one is a chain drive All-O-Matic. Inside the box there is a motor driving a wheel with a belt. The door is a double.
Any recommendations?
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http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/appfaq.htm#afgdpdwr
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Probably not a big job but if your not sure what to do you will probably waste the better part of a day maybe two, whats your time worth? Probably get it installed right, for under a $100.
Tom

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On Sun, 22 Jan 2006 09:46:55 -0600, twfsa wrote:

I've installed two (one new, one replacement) and they each took about four hours. It's pretty easy, particularly replacment since all the attachment points are already there.
--
Keith


> "dean" < snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com> wrote in message
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Thanks all!
The problem with getting someone else to do it is that I have to wait in for them, taking time off work, and still end up spending 4 hours standing around doing nothing. AND paying them!
Plus, here in Princeton, no-one wants to come out to your house for less than $500.
I will have a go. Does anyone know who makes the All-o-matic? I can't see a brand name on there anywhere!
Dean
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Ooops here it is: Allister All-O-Matic, Model ARD, 1/3HP motor.
I'm going to look online now for a replacement.
-D
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http://www.allstarcorp.com /
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Garage Door Parts, LLC
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dean wrote:

Exactly how did you twiddle? Did you adjust the lower limit of travel? There opener has a switch for this, actuated by a gear mechanism off the motor, probably a screw jack. If adjustment doesn't help, unplug the power (IMPORTANT!) and look for this mechanism. The switch may have a dirty contact. Clean it by rubbing an alcohol-soaked cloth or piece of cardboard against it (brown side of a cereal box), but do not use sandpaper or a file.
An opener takes 2-6 hours to install, and a new one can give improved safety, thanks to the electric eye across the threshhold. Security will also be better and prevent burglars from opening the door by copying the remote codes (copies are useless) or trying all of them (there are too many).
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I didn't adjust anything, I simple tapped here and there and then it was ok for a few months.
What happens is that it seems not to know to stop pulling or pushing, the motor keeps on buzzing really loud. It must be the switch that gets hit by the stop on the chain, but its really hard to tell what's happening, it goes really fast!
-Dean
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sears installs new openers for 99 bucks.
Something to think about.
I would try moving the limit controls just a tad to see if that helps. left right evenly 1/2 turn then back to about where they were.
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Could you tell me what the limit controls look like? I have had the cover off and stared at the thing for a while, but it was confusing, as when its opening its moving so fast I cant see whats happening very well.
Thanks for the Sears advice! I hear their Liftmaster (= Craftsman) is pretty decent.
Dean
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dean wrote:

Look at the limit adjustments, and see where they connect internally to the overhead unit.
Or snap some clear photos (emphasis on "clear") of the insides and post them at a place like Glowfoto.com or Flickr.com so everybody can look at them.
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dean wrote:

Garage door openers are designed to shut off after 20-30 seconds, in case the travel limit switches or safety mechanisms fail, and it's possible this is what yours is doing. I would try adjusting the lower limit, and if it's working normally you should be able to make the door stop several inches above the bottom. Otherwise I would unplug the power and look for obvious mechanical flaws. If none can be seen, remove the circuit board and examine it under bright light and a magnifying glass for cracked traces and solder. Solder cracks can be difficult to see, and it may be best to simply resolder all the joints for connectors, switches, and large or heavy components. Use a conventional 25-40W iron, not a Cold Heat iron or a soldering gun. If possible, post a picture of the opener and its circuit board.
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finding new ones. Be sure they match. If you have checked on top of opener to make sure the stop switch areas are not gummed up with grease when it gets cold and gets thick. Clean with electronic parts cleaner. unplug operator first though. See if this helps before messing with or replacing microswitchs Best Regards Anthony
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Thanks again for all the help, I have just bought one from Sears. There were other things wrong with the old one, and although I generally fix things like this, they seem cheap enough, and the new one has a sensor in it, which will be good for the kid. Installation for $130 from Sears, lifetime guarantee on the opener!
Cheers,
Dean
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