Electrical Switches/Outlets/Drwall/Fire Hazzard

The contractor put new drywall over the old one I had. I now have about 3/4" of drywall. But all the old electrical boxes(metal) are now very recessed to the point I have to bring out the switches and outlets with spacers. THe only problem here is that now, the guts of the switchs and outlets that were before inside the metal boxes now are near the cut areas of the drywall opening.
Is this a fire hazard? Many switches spark when turned on or off.
What should I use to fire fire proof the Sheetrock around the switch or outlet? The metal boxes don't come all the way the out to protect around the Sheetrock.
Should I user silicone? Metal/foil duct tape?
Any help appreciated!!
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: The contractor put new drywall over the old one I had. ==> uMM, why? And why didn't he handle the boxes at the same time? Is that what you wanted him to do?
I now have about : 3/4" of drywall. But all the old electrical boxes(metal) are now very : recessed to the point I have to bring out the switches and outlets with : spacers. THe only problem here is that now, the guts of the switchs and : outlets that were before inside the metal boxes now are near the cut : areas of the drywall opening. : : Is this a fire hazard? Many switches spark when turned on or off. : : What should I use to fire fire proof the Sheetrock around the switch or : outlet? The metal boxes don't come all the way the out to protect around : the Sheetrock. : : Should I user silicone? Metal/foil duct tape? ==> You really need to add box extenders to bring them out flush if you want the mounting to be reliable. Just pulling, say, the outlet out farther isn't the best answer by any means, IMO. I don't think that's to code either, but someone who knows more than I will be alond shortly, I'm sure.
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: : Any help appreciated!!
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wrote:

314.20 In Wall or Ceiling. In walls or ceilings with a surface of concrete, tile, gypsum, plaster, or other noncombustible material, boxes shall be installed so that the front edge of the box will not be set back of the finished surface more than 6 mm (1/4 in.).
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You have to put some add-ons to bring the boxes out to the surface. There is no other way.
And you say your switches SPARK! None should. They are bad. Change them first. ...thehick
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: You have to put some add-ons to bring the boxes out : to the surface. There is no other way. : : And you say your switches SPARK! None should. They : are bad. Change them first. : ...thehick : No, he's right. ALL mechanical switches will spark. Even mercury switches. It's not visible as a rule, but unless the voltage is at the zero point or close, there is a spark generated. It's the nature of electricity. That's why you don't want ot turn lights on or off in a room discovered to be full of gas.
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"No, he's right. ALL mechanical switches will spark" Now, technically, you are right. But in practise if the spark is bad enough to be visible, there's something very wrong. I just took off two covers here. One used relatively new switches, one uses switches that are ver 25 years old. and then I flicked them off and on about 10 times each. NO visible spark. As I expected. Think about it. the swicth itself is enclosed. For the spark to show it would have to be gigantic. I stand by my earlier suggestion that the sparking switches are bad. Maybe this could be an episode of myth-busters? ...thehick
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With sheetrock walls, a miniscule fire hazard, unless a switch or outlet explodes and showers sparks into the wall cavity. However, most places, it is a code violation. They sell, very cheaply, plastic box extenders that don't even require undoing the wiring screws. Just turn off breaker, pull device from wall (you may have to enlarge the drywall hole a little), work the extender over the device, and screw it all back together. I had to install several in the this place when I bought it, due to several idiot/lazy modifications previous owners made. Takes maybe 10 minutes per box. Your drywall guy was a twit- he should have installed metal extender rings as he put up the drywall, or at least explained the situation to you. If you make an oopsie and make the drywall hole too big, or the flange on the extender sticks past cover plate, they also make oversize cover plates now to hide all that.
aem sends...
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On Sun, 22 Jan 2006 17:34:11 GMT, "ameijers"

Sheetrock does not burn. There are millions of outlets and switches improperly installed like this in the world. However, to be legal with the code, get extenders. Use metal ones for metal boxes, plastic for plastic. They are cheap, easy to install. No biggie.... Dont forget to get extra long #6 screws too. (In your case, 3/4" longer than the original).
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From an electrical supply, get switch box sleeve extensions, they'll make up the space between the box and surface. NEC allows 1/4 inch in non combustible material. All switches spark when they make and break, while sometimes you can see the sparking, it should be contained within the switch body

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camou wrote:

The only approved material are the extenders made for the job.
Sheetrock is fire resistant, but you really need the proper extenders. There would only be a very small risk by not doing it, but do you want to explain to your family that their home burned down because of a small risk you took.
--
Joseph Meehan

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camou wrote:

Sheetrock is ROCK. It doesn't burn.
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wrote:

Gypsum is a mineral, but not a rock. I think some minerals burn, but not this one.
Paper burns.
Remove NOPSAM to email me. Please let me know if you have posted also.
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