Drywall/painting question

Quick question: I have just finished scraping wallpaper off a wall that the previous bozos ... I mean, homeowners ... hadn't bothered to prime, paint or size. The other walls had been painted, luckily. I scraped off a gouge before I realized this wall was different, also I used a paper tiger and was a little zealous in a few spots and left dings in the drywall paper.
Can I just use drywall patch over those small areas, then paint? Googling, I saw that someone had a problem doing that, that they should have shellac-ed over the damaged areas first.
After all this work, I don't want to make more work for myself by skipping a step. Thanks for any help you can give me.
nancy
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Nancy Young wrote:

Zinsser Gardz primer.
http://zinsser.com/product_detail.asp?ProductID '
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Oh! What do you know. Thanks! I have to prime anyway, that's the stuff to use.
nancy
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Nancy Young wrote:

I've used spackle on dings in drywall numerous times and never had a problem with it. Just be sure you allow plenty of drying time, especially if using alkyd paint.
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Now that I've called around and can't find the Gardz, I've decided to give the one larger scrape a coat of BIN before spackling. Then the whole room will get a coat of BIN.
Thanks for the post. I'll remember about the drying, appreciate the heads up.
nancy
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Nancy Young wrote:

Just been there, done that, as they say. The wallpaper, vinyl cloth, came off pretty easy, however, there were some spots where the drywall surface was damaged. The problem arises when you put wet mud in these spots. The moisture soaks into the paper and causes bubbling just beyond the damage spot. If you scape and remud these spots, you might get bubbles a little further out .... and so on and so on!. My wife searched on the net and found, as someone suggested, Zinzer Gardz. We rolled it on in a very thin coat. There was only one spot where additional bubbling occurred. We probably put too much Gardz on that spot. Once Gardz dries, it is no longer water soluble. So, mudding over this doesn't seem to cause additional bubbles. After the mudding and sanding, I put a coat of Gardz on the mud areas. Later I primed with Zinzer tinted water based primer and then painted. It looks pretty good.
BTW, Gardz, from what I can guess, is acrylic varnish .... looks like the MinWax acrylic varnish product ... even smells like it. I would think that shellac would probably work similarly. After the frustrations of brute force patching in another room, I am a Gardz believer.
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wrote:

Partially correct- Gardz will seal like a shellac. But it (and this is the beauty of it) 'penetrates' and will bind unsound surfaces together like a glue.
After 30 years of hanging wallpaper and running into many types of wall conditions, I'm a HUGE Gardz believer. I don't know what we ever did without it.
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Hugh Glass wrote:

You're correct, I left that out in my original answer. You can see the penetrating action because all the drywall carboard turns darker in color. As I said, you have to be careful to not saturate the area too much, or the bubbles will likely appear. But my experience shows that it doesn't happen too often.
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Nancy Young wrote:

How large is the "large scrape"? Your method will probably be fine, but sounds like overkill. Pin holes from the paper tiger need only spackle, at most. Probably would fill with primer. Since you said one wall had never had primer, I would buy a latex primer that can be used on new drywall, and spot prime the patches too. Then prime the whole wall. A good paint store will have the right primer and paint for you. Gouges in drywall are standard stuff. When I have torn dryeall paper, it got a little messy because the paper stuck out through spackle. A ball peen hammer fixed that. Spackle the dent and go on.
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If you mud over the scrapes and dings, the moisture in the mud will seep into the gypsum core of the drywall and you'll have more problems.
FIRST -- seal the dings and scrapes -- there's a Zinser product, I think it's called Gardz or something like that. It's basically a varnish that seals the surface to which it's applied so moisture won't penetrate.
-- Seal with Zinser Gardz, let it dry according to package directions. -- Mud over the dings and scrapes -- use a light application of mud, even if you have to put on 2-3 layers. Light application will dry quickly and saves you from having to sand down a big lump of mud. -- When you have a smooth-as-a-baby's-bottom surface, let it dry 48 hours or so until you detect no moisture in the mud. -- Prime with a good quality primer. -- Paint.
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Thank you! to everyone who responded. Being the holiday weekend, I wasn't able to find the Gardz. I bought something that I hoped would do the job, an oil based primer. I got a spray can of Kilz original interior oil-base primer-sealer-stainblocker. I sprayed the areas where I'd inadvertently scraped off the drywall paper.
Let that dry, then put on a coat of primer. Cleaned up the rough areas with drywall compound. It turned out great, just a little sanding and I'm ready for my finish coat of paint. I did that a little out of order, but all's well than ends well.
Just wanted to let you know I appreciated the advice.
nancy
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