I have a couple rooms where the old plaster ceilings are stained,
cracked, etc. - I am thinking the easiest thing to do might be to just
have a layer of drywall put over them. (note - yes I have fixed the
roof leak that led to the stains etc.) There's no cove molding or
anything to worry about; I think the half inch less headroom would not
be an issue. I'll probably have pros do it and just do the painting
myself. Just wondering if anyone has done this, did it work OK, etc.
IF it were me I would go over the old ceiling with 5/8 sheetrock...It is
much stronger and stiffer and will look alot flater..Under no circumstances
use 1/4 inch...1/2 inch MINIMUM...Screw the rock to the joists with 2 1/2
inch screws...Don't be afraid to poke a few holes in the old ceiling to find
the joists and then snap lines on the old ceiling with a chaulk line...Agree
you should get a pro....Have done it many , many times......Good luck....
This is sarcasm, right? Or have you never tried to use 1/4"
overhead? I'm old & weak but wouldn't use anything less than 1/2"
on a ceiling. [and I doubt I'd try to make it look good over
anything but a really good lathe/plaster ceiling. One that was so
good I'd likely just patch it anyway] I've always used 2x4 deadmen
& worked alone-- maybe a crew and sheetrock lift would make1/4"
If the OP is calling a pro-- then hopefully the pro will talk him out
of foolishness-- and it doesn't matter what anyone here thinks.
Read the OP's message again, carefully. This is going over an existing
plaster ceiling; stained, but presumably otherwise in good condition. So
why would you *not* want to use 1/4" drywall? By the way, I have done
this, and it works fine.
And also by the way, it's "lath". Lathe is a rotary machine.
Found--the gene that causes belief in genetic determinism
I left the whole thing so *you* could" Read the OP's message again,
Except for the "cracked, etc." part. If it was just stained, I'm
guessing he'd paint it.
Aside from the extra cost, it is damn near impossible to work with
because it breaks so easy. It is also a lot more unforgiving when
going over a less than perfect backer- nails pull through- it waves.
It will work fine if the dw is screwed to ceiling joists. Some future
potential problems if it is only screwed to the lath.
It is quite often easier to add cheap furring strips across the joists at a
perfect 16" OC so that the seams all line up properly with the drywall. The
1.25" will never be missed. Back in those days 16" OC was approximate.
Please come visit www.househomerepair.com
On Tue, 20 Oct 2009 11:28:44 -0700 (PDT), Heathcliff
I see nothing wrong doing this. You may need to reset the ceiling
light electrical box such that the edge comes to the ceiling surface,
or buy an electrical extension. Also, find the joists. Ceiling
drywall needs more screws than when installed on a wall. Strange as
it may be, drywall has a "grain" and is stronger lengthwise than
crosswise. I've done drywall ceilings, it is not difficult, stilts
Comment about ripping down the old?
1) In favour of the motion: Get rid of rough surface, unevenness,
possibly sagging etc. Easier to screw/nail brand new drywall ceiling
to correctly spaced furring strips etc. It may also be possible/
advantageous to install vapour barrier and/heat or sound insulation?
2) Against the motion. Don't know what's up there over the ceiling.
Old dirt and insulation may fall through and need replacing/upgrading.
Major mess and clean up to tear down ceiling. More 'stuff' to get rid
of. More time and cost? Any existing electrical fixtures/wiring in
ceiling may need slight modification?
Th discussion about what thickness drywall to use to ensure a flat/
smooth good looking job would seem rather minor; especially if
professionals with all the right gear are going to do the work and can
Good luck with project.
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