Dealing with insurance adjusters

Page 5 of 5  


Another reason to use a good broker. Being independent of the insurance companies, and working for YOU, not the insurance company, they can help you be sure you are getting the insurance you need, and understand your coverage. Yes, there are useless brokers out there, but on the whole you are generally farther ahead with a broker than withan agent. ( or a direct-sale over-the-phone company)

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wrote:

Stop attempting to negotiate. Contact your state insurance commission. Be prepared to divulge the name of your insurer. Keep detailed records of all your contacts. -----
- gpsman
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snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net wrote:

And then they will only pay to replace the one slope, ie section.

Sounds as if she probably is in the ballpark, and you're looking to get something for nothing.
I suppose if you got in a fender bender, you would want the entire car replaced. Insurance companies only replace what is damaged.
Quit trying to get a handout, and get a job.
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snipped-for-privacy@attt.bizz wrote:

He has a job, and he wisely uses some of the money that he earns to purchase insurance coverage for the property that he owns. All he is doing is asking the insurance company to do their job, do what he pays his insurance premiums for, and make him whole by covering the reasonable costs that he will incur to repair the damage that was caused by the covered hazard (the storm).
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ase

sking

e

Thank you. That's exactly how I saw it. Apparently in krw's simple mind, he agrees that the correct way to figure out painting costs is to take the area of a wall, then subtract the area of the 7 windows and 2 doors. Then multiply the small area left by the cheapest per square foot painting cost, like a builder would pay to have wide open walls sprayed white, with no flooring, etc in to even worry about. Then say it costs very little, because there is little wall area left. Those windows and doors add $$$ because of all the cutting in that's involved. If it was just an open wall, you could roll it in minutes and the cost of labor exceeds the cost of the paint saved. That's how you lowball $600 or $1100 for a job that should be several times that. How many trips for example does it take to do this job because stuff has to be done in sequence:
Re-tape drywall, 3 coats of mud Apply stainkiller Two coats of paint
krw as usual is an obnoxious fool
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On Wed, 20 Mar 2013 09:15:50 -0700 (PDT), " snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net"

Idiot. It's HomoGay playing his childish games.

Good God, you're dense, Trader!
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In the case of a car, the insurance co pays the body repairman to paint what needs to be painted to make it match - and SOME colours of some paints are "whole job", some you can do a "full panel" without blending, and some you can patch a panel.
Personally I do NOT allow any blending. Full panel - no blend, or patch the panel - preferably full panel. Today's paints don't fade much, so even on a 17 year old vehicle a good match is not difficult at all on an OEM finish.
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uld

Get your head out of your ass and go fuck yourself.
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snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net wrote:

Bite me, you free-loader. You're the reason *YOUR* insurance is high.
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On Wed, 20 Mar 2013 09:05:14 -0700 (PDT), " snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net"

Trader, do pull your head out of your ass some day and take a breath. The world doesn't really stink as bad as New Jersey.
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wrote:

I see HomoGay is impersonating me again. He *loves* me, but he's not my type.
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snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net wrote:

I would say that, in your case, you should try contacting one more public adjusters in your area. Explain your situation and/or send them an excerpted copy of what you wrote here. Then ask them what they think, what they charge, etc. Public adjuster fees are negotiable, but I think they are typically something like 25% of the amount of the claim obtained plus some "costs and expenses". But, again, that is all negotiable. I have only been involved in a couple of claims over the years through where I work and one on my own property. Ordinarily, I don't involve a public adjuster because I didn't see the need for one and the claims were all fairly obvious and straight up. But in your case, and given the nonsense that Allstate is telling you, I think a public adjuster would be worth it.
In the one case where I did use a public adjuster many years ago, I didn't accept their proposed fee structure. Instead, I said that they could have the job but without any "costs or expenses" being included. And, it was so long ago that I honestly can't remember if I accepted their percentage of claim figure of 25% or if I worked out a lower percentage. They were fine with whatever the negotiated fee deal was that I offered, and they did a great job.
I don't know what today's public adjuster fees typically are, but assuming they are something like 25% of the claim plus "costs and expenses", I would negotiate something different. For example, in your case, you pretty much know what You're-Not-In-Good-Hands Allstate is going to offer you. So, maybe you can start from there. If it were me, I would say to the public adjuster that I already know what I can get without using a public adjuster, so my only reason for using one would be if I can end up with, or "net", more than that. So, if it were me, I would probably say that I won't pay any "costs or expenses", but I will pay the 25% (or whatever their typical percentage is) for any amount they get that is over and above what I already know I can get. If they didn't go for that (although I think they might), I would consider offering them a HIGHER percentage -- say 30% or even 35% -- but ONLY on the amount that is over and above what I already know I can get. That way, they get the job and make money for their efforts, and I know that I won't end up netting less than I could have gotten on my own. And, in this case, they don't have to prove the underlying claim -- you already did that and Allstate already accepted that they are going to have to pay the claim.
Another thing to consider is that public adjusters know how to include everything that should be included in the claim. For example, with water damage and a roof leak that goes in behind the walls, there is a question about mold forming in the walls. The walls and ceiling are supposed to be opened up (should have been right away) to dry out the area, and then they need to check and/or treat for mold.
As far as "matching" the rest of the roof, there is some term in the insurance policy coverage that deals with that, but I don't know what that is called. When people get their policies, they need to decide if they want that "matching" the rest of the siding, roofing, etc. type of coverage. If so, it will specify that in the policy and you pay a little more for the coverage. Otherwise, the insurance company doesn't have to exactly match the rest of the siding, roof, etc. that wasn't damaged.
If you say where you are located, someone here may be able to suggest a knowledgeable reputable, honest, and reliable public adjuster in your area. I happen to indirectly know of one in the Southeastern Pennsylvania area through a real estate investor group that I belong to, but I doubt that you are in that location. If you are, let me know and I'll pass on his info.
Good luck, and let us know how this all turns out.
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snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net wrote:

I think so too. I have a similarly sized space but not as high...one long side is 8', the other 12', end walls slope. Many windows too but more like 25-35%. It needs some retaping, texturing and painting. As soon as I do a bit of construction it will be done; price my guy gave me is $600.
BTW, in the part I snipped you mentioned the need to cut in around can lights; some reason the trim rings can't be removed?
--

dadiOH
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snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net wrote:

Here's a website link that I just found today that I think will be of interest to you:
http://www.justice.org/docs/TenWorstInsuranceCompanies.pdf .
And, you guessed it, Allstate ranks Number 1 on their list.
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