Cutting a Metal Entry Door

I have a 79" rough opening and a stock 81.5" metal entry door to install in it. It's a standard 30" Masonite six panel door I picked up at HD. I can't make the RO higher because I'd be cutting into a header supporting perpendicular floor joists above it.
I have the jambs and door all marked and ready for cutting. I figure my 7.5" circular saw will do the job on the door bottom if I set up a fence with some c-clamps and a straightedge, but not sure what type of blade to use for this application. Any ideas?
Thanks
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snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net wrote:

I used a metal-cutting (ferrous) abrasive blade. Don't try to make a full-depth cut; a couple of light passes will be better.
Jim
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Adjust the blade lower on each pass?
Thanks
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Using oil on the hinges stops squeaks.
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Better check to see how the door is made. Taking that much off could considerably weaken the door. Most door manufactures only put structure around the edges.
You might have to take 1/2 off each edge.
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I believe that you can special order a door the right size or maybe one one inch shorter from Home Depot as a standard size (not stocked). You'll have to wait, but it's better than cutting a metal door.
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It's only metal on the outside, probably filled with foam or something on the inside. I have to take my chances. There might be an opportunity to insert the bottom structure in the resized door depending on what's inside, if I can hollow it out.
Since I have to also resize the jamb I'm only inclined to cut one end, and I'd rather only compromise one end with my limited know-how.
Thanks
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A wood door can't be cut with a hacksaw.
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G Henslee wrote:

Why not? It'd take forever, but it could be done.
R
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RicodJour wrote:

Friction factor Rico. It may start on fire.
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It wouldn't be the tool of choice, but why couldn't it be done?
--

Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
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wrote:

I have never seen a hacksaw (hand) that would allow more than a 5-6 inch long cut.
The bow will get in the way
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YOu turn the blade so the bow is on the side. He can't cut more than about 4 inches or so off at a time by doing it that way. Still not something I would want to do. Time to rent or buy some power saw to cut the door.
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Turn the blade 90 degrees so the hacksaw must be moved "sideways" rather than down, and a cut of any length can be made, but only as "deep" as the frame of the saw allows.
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Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
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Actually I just bought a $2 ferrous metal blade at the local big box and cut away with no problems. I started with just a surface cut and lowered the blade a little on each pass. Once you're through the top you can lower the more than an inch or so to go through the foam until you hit the bottom cladding.
The metal cladding at most is only 1/16" thick on both sides. Inside the door is nothing more than what I guess I will call "structural" foam.
I can hollow out some of that foam on the "new" door bottom and put the real plastic structural piece back in with some phenoseal or somesuch adhesive that doesn't disintegrate the contacting foam.
Then all that is left is trimming the wooden jambs, reassembly of the threshold pieces and viola... installation.
How do you like me know... me and my bad self?
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snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net wrote:

Metal doors are often just metal clad with the interior consisting of a man made pressed fiber material. Cutting off more than 1/8" will remove the metal on that edge and make a mess. And you will have only a partially clad metal door.
Think about buy a door that fits the "finished" opening or you may end up paying for two doors.
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A hacksaw would take too long.
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