GFCIs work just fine without a ground connected! Code would require that the outlet be marked "No Equipment Ground" outlets downstream should be marked "GFCI Protected-No Equipment Ground", Do it that way and you will be code legal. The cheap outlet testers won't trip the GFCI, but the test button will.
Dan. and yes, I am an electrical inspector.
Don't know, and don't want to know. The OP just wanted some help straightening out some outlet wiring issues.
And now he has to replace all his outlets with GFI's and buy hairdryers.
SHEESH !
AMUN
Not all of them. Just the first in the daisy chain. The rest will still be protected from ground fault.
It is not allowed in new construction, granted. But it makes a 2-wire receptacle system much much safer and it is allowed specifically under those conditions with proper stickers affixed. Even plain jane 3-prong receptacles with no ground wire are allowed if the outlet is GFCI protected and so labeled as GFCI protected and no equipment ground.
If they don't work then what are the things on the newer hair dryers ? The one my wife uses only had a 2 wire plug.
I do admit and agreed earlier in this thread that "it's still better than nothing" But not by much.
But the one main caveat of that solution is that some equipment really does not like being on ground faults, (computers,tv power supplies, refrigerator motors, UPS's etc.) and can pop a gfi for no valid reason. Such things are usually in plastic isolated cases and make gfi protection almost silly as there is no possible risk of shock, unless someone is really begging for it.
Those items usually come with polarized plugs, and are designed to be protected by a dedicated ground and fuse/breaker.
Even lightning storms in the area can flip a gfi from transients in the AC line.
If the main gfi is in another room upstream of the outlet, there will be a lot of worn carpeting while constantly running around guessing which one tripped, and resetting them.
But the fact remains that the OP's real problem is best solved by simply replacing all the wiring with romex with a ground.
Or at least first making sure that all existing outlets are wired as properly as possible. (hot and neutral where they should be)
AMUN
OP here again >>>>>>.
I knew this topic was a can of worms.
I just checked the wiring I did in the garage add on and in the attic which had no electric when I moved in 30+ years ago.
Based on the same GB tester results, only 2 lights show = PERFECT HOOKUP. So I am not totally devoid of skills.
The problem is with the rest of the ORIGINAL house wiring. I have made additiions to that wiring and it was done BLACK TO BLACK and WHITE TO WHITE since the colors of the old original Romex were visible.
As I said, a garage was added on and the original wiring in the original panel ( now a junction box ) was extended over the garage ceiling to the new outside wall of the garage. The junction box has been plastered over, but I am sure my friend and I (he knew more than I did at the time ) were not that stupid as to mix BLACK AND WHITE wires in splicing the connections.
The ORIGINAL panel had 4 15amp breakers with NO MAIN breaker - 60 amp service.
Thanks to all for all the help.
OP here again >>>>>>>>>>
I was going to start a new thread since the info below is a new wrinkle but decided to post here with something I found on the ACE HARDWARE site while trying to do some research on the 3 lights that I mentioned previously giving me a BRIGHT YELLOW lite and a DIM RED AND CLEAR lites
- all three lit at one time.
I found this instruction as I said on the ACE site in an FAQ on HOW TO use the CIRCUIT ANALYZER with the 3 lites >>>>>>>>>>>
" What is the easiest way to test an outlet?
Use a receptacle analyzer. Leave the power on, but make sure nothing is plugged into any outlet on the circuit, and turn off all switches on the circuit. Now, plug the analyzer into the outlet. A series of lights will tell you if the outlet is wired correctly and working."
Amun posted for all of us... I don't top post - see either inline or at bottom.
Yes totally.
Cite the manufacturers.
Like everything else in life. Local codes vary. The AHJ is the judge.
NEW construction REQUIRES a ground; so therefore this assertion is bogus.
Now you start to catch on...
No, he can do it the right way.
Duh!
He also has to make certain the line and load sides are correct plus many other things.. Why don't you keep quiet about things you know nothing about?
A light fully glowing would be 120 volts. A light extinguished would be near zero volts. A light glowing partially would be something like 60 volts. But 'something like 60 volts' must not exist between any two wires. So what is leaking half of the 120 volts? That is basically the question to be asked. Nothing should be leaking half of the
120 volts.BTW, that tester cannot report a good wir> " What is the easiest way to test an outlet?
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