Chainsaw choice -

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Harry K wrote:

Yeah, the little left over from a chain saw wouldn't make much difference. Now if you are talking of 5 gallons, that is something else.
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Rich256 wrote:

Better yet, put it in your Lawn Mower or Snow Blower.
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Jack wrote:

I bought a 14" Homelite and it didn't cut worth a damn, took it back and traded it for a 14" Poulan. Made about 100 cuts with the Poulan (same size trees as you are describing) and the oil pump went out. They are made out of plastic and from what I've read this is a common problem with this saw. I contacted Poulan and they covered the oil pump under warranty, just had to take it to a local Poulan service center.
So IMO both of those saws are junk. I was gonna take the Poulan back to Home Depot and trade it for something else but the only saws in that price range, were the Homelite and my same Poulan. So I just got it repaired. I've only used it once since being repaired so hopefully it won't fail again, because then it will be out of my pocket.
BTW, Poulan told ME when the saws warranty was up by the serial number. I don't really understand how it was still under warranty (only 8 months old according to them) because I had it for about 13 months. It has a one yr warranty.
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. . . .

I think that for that level of use, you should skip the chainsaw, and buy a medium sized bow saw, a folding pruning saw, and an axe, and spend the remaining 50-75$ on beer.

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Goedjn wrote:

Sure are a lot of ppl here suggesting a bow saw.
Say what you will but why make extra work for yourself? Sure the initial cut on trees that size is no big deal but then (in my case anyway) they have to be cut into smaller pieces (24" and bundled) in order for the county/city to haul them away.
How many ppl suggesting a hand saw still use a manual can-opener?
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Because it's about an hour's extra work, and it saves you $75. I know, a lot of people make more than $75 an hour, even after taxes. I'm not one of them.

Leave the logs in 8' lengths, and sell them on ebay.

How many people suggesting a hand saw only open 3-4 cans a year?
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Ron wrote:

Actually, I do use a manual can opener. I have an collection of "P-38's" from my "Uncle Sam" that I use. Of course it may have to do with living in the mountains where electricity is often a "sometimes" thing for weeks at a time.
To buck up those trees wouldn't take long with a bow saw and axe. And think of the exercise.LOL.
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I would hardly call pruning a few trees and cutting up small ones like that heavy labor. I trim all my prunings with my bow saw (have 3 chain saws) to fit compactly in the PU. It doesn't take very long at all. Every branch is trimmed until it is one stick with no side branches/twigs. My usual load is to the top of my 2ft racks and well stomped down so there is a lot of brush to a load.
Yes, I use a manual can opener.
I bet if they had electric beer can openers you would probably buy one to save the "work".
Harry K
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Harry K wrote:

Since you didn't quote any text, I'll assume you are responding to me.
Pruning?
The OP wrote "Got to saw up 2 felled pine trees in my dad's yard tomorrow. (5 inch 14feet tall, & 8 inch diameter 18 feet tall"
That is hardly pruning.
Question.....Would the work that you do be faster with a chainsaw, or with a bow-saw?
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Ron wrote:

Cutting up 5" stuff with a bow saw is hardly extreme labor. I heat with wood and in the woods will use my chainsaw to section stuff down to about that size. Around the homestead, it is common to be removing limbs, and even trees, that size. If I'm not using them for firewood - bowsaw is the choice. I removed 1 black walnut, 12" diameter stump, plus a whole load of prunings off another black walnut last summer. Chainsaw was used only for the falling cut, cutting a few large limbs while on the ladder, and sectioning the log for firewood. Bow saw for all else. Cutting small diameter stuff on the ground with a chainsaw while keeping the chain ou of the dirt is not easy.
Harry K
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depends on how much you want to work and how fast you want to be finished.
quick and easy is electric chainsaw:)
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Ron wrote:

Oops. I realized that I hadn't answered the question.
Depends, for a few cuts, it is faster with the bow saw by the time you get the chainsaw out, mix gas/oil and fire it up. Remember he is only using it once or twice a year. That calls for fresh gas/oil every time and if it is a cheap saw it may not start easily. May even be so for several cuts when you figure in the maintenance and chain sharping on a power saw.
Why is 'speed' so important? For a few trees if it takes an hour with a bow saw or 45 minutes with a chainsaw, so what? Most time spent in his work is in the clean-up, not the sawing. I fugure when either pruning or cutting firewood that at most only 10% of the time goes into actually running whatever saw I am using, be it chain or bowsaw. The rest of the time is in cleanup, loading etc. Now if I am getting cash money paid for the work, yep the chainsaw will be used when appropriate.
Does he want a chainsaw because it is a 'neat thing' Fine, no problem. Does he 'need' a chainsaw? Not for what he described. I am too much of a scotchman I guess, I don't buy stuff because it is 'cool', I buy because it is a needed tool. In his place I would have at most a sawzall, definitely not a chainsaw.
Harry K
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Harry K wrote:

Depends on your physical condition (and age?)!! If you are 75 cutting one log might be "heavy labor".
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Jack wrote:

You know, the other factor that has not been addressed here, and some people would probably hoot about it, is that a saw is probably one of the most dangerous tools you can use. And, the mistakes made with one are usually made by new users, or tired users.
I learned how to use a saw while working for the U.S. Forest Service. One of the most important lessons I learned was safety equipment. I never fire up a saw without chaps, hardhat with face screen and ear protection, heavy boots and gloves.
Add those into the price of the saw....or not. I've been using saws for 30 years. I'd never claim to be an expert. I also hope to never get the nickname "stubby"
Never use a saw without proper training and safety gear. Never loan a saw to anyone I am not certain knows how to use them and will also use safety gear. Period.
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There's a reason why the bar is so far to the right. Cause most saw operators are right handers. Keep the saw to the right, and your head to the left. So if it kicks back at you, the saw will go over your right shoulder.
I've seen saw guys with their face right in line with the saw. Explained this, and they keep sawing with their head right in line.
--

Christopher A. Young
You can\'t shout down a troll.
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Stormin Mormon wrote:

Uh, often it goes "right into" your right shoulder.
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