Silicone caulk is fine, but get the GE Silicone II, or whichever brand/model is labelled as paintable. Cut the nozzle only a short way back, to dispense a fine bead, perhaps 1/8 inch or less, so it is not noticeable, and makes it easier to razor blade the excess off, where it smears or drips. I hope you intend to caulk at the pane edges and casing/trim; not between the moving part and the sill. Unopenable windows are draftproof, but dangerous, should you have a fire.
I'd like to caulk my windows to eliminate drafts this winter (they're old, and I have no $ to replace them). I'd like to do this on the interior so I don't have to remove all of my storm windows and spend days on the end of my extension ladder. Will plain silicone caulk be useful or is there a special/better product to do this? Thanks in advance.
RLL
"Siliconized latex" costs several times less and also dries clear.
Nick
If you're thinking of a temporary airtight caulk that you can remove in the spring - look into "seal and peel" by dap.
If you are able and fit, a trip up the ladder may be part of the cure. Caulking around window frames can be quite effective in lowering heating bills; check doors and other openings in outer walls (pipe entries, etc.) Depending on the type of window, you may need weatherstripping or reglazing. Need more info about your setup.
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