I plan on buying replacement doors for my kitchen cabinets. Any
recommendations as to the best product to use to strip the two or more
layers of paint a previous owner applied to the cabinet sides and
underneath? The paint on the doors themselves isn't an issue since
they'll be discarded.
I should have added that I want to get all the paint off and stain the
cabinets' natural wood and new unfinished doors together.
What is Zip Strip.....some kind of liquid or jelly paint stripper
On Nov 23, 5:25 pm, email@example.com wrote:
A marine strip is quickest, maybe Methelyene Chloride. If its crappy
latex maybe alcohol will work. Grease and hand oils imbedd into
cabinets, sanding often is not enough to ever get a real bond, oil
paint can fisheye and eventualy peel. If kitchen was cooked in alot,
is over 7-10 years, and wasnt cleaned weekly by the maid then
stripping might be the only way. Under the cabinets I would never do
as your work postion will be bad. I would just clean and repaint to
match or be similar. Nobody looks under cabinets, nor will you.
I've used water wash stripper once, and hate it. I have used methylene
chloride for many
furniture and one kitchen cabinet projects. Semi-paste, solvent clean
(some stuff available
now allows both). Methylene chloride will strip any kind of paint or
varnish I have encountered.
It will damage plastic and vinyl, and eats through rubber gloves. Need
lots of protection for
floor, etc. I use plastic sandwich bags to handle steel wool and
scraper, as it keeps it off
skin and dispose of easily. Probably would need two applications if
there are mult. layers
of paint - put it on thick and allow time for it to work. You will see
surface of paint wrinkle
almost immediately, but allow at least 20-30 min. Scrape. Apply
again. Scrub with steel
wool, scrape off stripper, clean more with steel wool, then final
clean-up with fine steel
wool and mineral spirits. Wipe that with paper towel to get ms and fine
bits of steel wool.
Let dry. Apply new finish. Stripper stings rather intensely when I get
it on my skin, but
it has never left any redness or blisters. Goggles a good idea, good vent.
EXCELLENT! Thanks for all your advice.
I checked the ingredients in Zip Strip on line....it's methylene
chloride so that's what I plan on using. Once I get the old layers of
paint off I'll see what the wood looks like underneath. If it's in
decent shape I can order some unfinished doors that will look like
they belong with the cabinets after everything is sanded and stained.
Some of the cabinet bottoms I'll HAVE to do, because they're high
above the sink and very visable.
This should be quite a bit cheaper than installing all new cabinets.
Are you doing all of the work yourself? You might want to consider
putting laminate on the
bottoms of the wall cabinets - long term, nice and easy to clean and it
would be a nasty job
to strip that part, it seems.
We got new doors, drawers and refaced our cabinets (contractor) because
the old cabinets
were sound......plywood, built in place. We used all of the old
door/drawer pulls, as they
were brushed nickel and pretty much up to date. Painted inside of
cabinets, two coats of
I've looked at three different replacement door suppliers online.
They each sell only unfinished doors & drawer faces. I can choose
from several different woods, but they come unfinished. So I'll
probably stain the doors and cabinet sides together.
Putting laminate on the cabinet bottoms as suggested earlier might be
a good idea. I suppose I'd have to stain the cabinets & doors to
match the laminate shade.
I would do them together. If the cabinets were originally stained with
a dark stain, some of
that color probably would remain after stripping. Stripping takes out
most stain, and it is
evident when the stain is allowed to work. If you are purchasing doors
in a very light wood,
like maple, it might be a problem trying to match. If you are going
with darker wood, like
oak or cherry, then probably easier to match ..... darker woods might
not need any stain
at all. Can always start with a dilute stain (ask at the PAINT STORE)
and one wood might take more applications than the other.
Or same color as wall? Do face frames extend beyond the bottom of the
cab? If not, then
applying laminate might leave a line at the edge where the paint coat
shows. Can always
touch that up; just something to consider.
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