On May 9, 9:26 am, firstname.lastname@example.org (Chris Lewis) wrote:
To each his own...I far prefer the powder-actuated route, particularly
if it's an old, really hard cured slab. The Remington is pretty
inexpensive and unless it really is only a one-time and one never does
this kind of thing except once in their life, once you got it, you
have it for whenever/whatever...
Perhaps although I've never had a treated sill plate fail on a dry
slab if there weren't a real water problem. Again, personal
True enough. But, I put in a lot more wall in our basement than the
OP is going to, the floor is over 20 years old, and all the drilling
together amounted to about an hour and a half with a wimpy cordless
hammer drill. With a good AC powered hammer drill (not even a hilti),
it would have totalled about 15 minutes.
It seems like lots of general contractors prefer the tapcon/hammer drill
I'd use the a power hammer so rarely that I'd worry about losing
the durn thing, plus having to fuss about which power load to use.
And it's a teensy bit more difficult to adjust if you change your
[I _hate_ nails ;-)]
Building code here _requires_ the plastic. It doesn't require treated.
While treated makes a lot of sense, especially as perimeter sills in
termite areas, it's generally not necessary for interior partition walls
if you've otherwise solved the floor moisture transfer issue.
Some people just don't like treated lumber inside the building
envelope in any event.
Age and Treachery will Triumph over Youth and Skill
Liquid Nails alone won't do it - I know from experience. It may hold
once you have the stringer anchored into the other walls, but
depending upon the closet configuration you could still end up pulling
the stringer out of whack.
What I did was pre-drill holes through my 2x4s approximately the same
diameter as the shaft of the Tapcon screws I was using so the screws
could continue to turn after bottoming-out without biting into the
wood. I used those holes to drill pilot holes for Tapcon screws into
the floor using a high-quality masonry bit and an AC electric drill
for this - don't even think about using your 18 or 24 volt cordless
I bottomed out the Tapcons in the 2x4, coated them with Liquid Nails
and ran a bead of LN between the pilot holes in the floor. Placed the
2x4, ran the screws in, and let the stringer dry 24 hours before I
tried doing anything else.
Held like a mad beast.
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