Any tricks for One-Man Toilet Replacing?

So I changed the wax ring on a toilet that overflowed. Did a real nice clean-up job. Trying to position a toilet over the bolts by yourself is like trying to (pardon the vulgarism) pop a zit on your back. I tried using duct tape to position the bolts straight, so I could plop the toilet over them. Didn't work. I ended up bending one of the bolts, and now I can't get the nut/washer combo to secure the terlet to the floor tightly.
Does anyone have any trick on how to replace toilets if you're working alone?
Thanks, always.
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snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

You could try removing the tank from the base to lighten the toilet, all it takes is removing the two bolts holding it on. It they appear rusted I wouldn't try it.
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I use some of the old wax to position the bolts EXACTLY straight up. Then set the toilet just a bit tilted sideways to get the first bolt on, then tilt it sideways slowly and straight to grab the second one. I usually use a wax ring and a wax ring extention. This allow the toilet to sit higher and you can slowly ease it into place. The extra wax isn't a big deal, and alot of toilets need it anyways. If all else fails, take off the tank (on two piece toilets and only two bolts) because handling just the bottom half is alot easier....
snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

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Just make sure you don't replace that one-man toilet with a two-man toilet. Ick.
-rev
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put two pieces of 2x4 down around the bolts and put the toilet on the 2x4 then line up the bolt and the toilet and pull out the 2x4 one at a time if this is still difficult, tie a string on the tip of the bolt and thread it through the toilet so you can pull on the string to straighten the bolt
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yes, temp prop/spacers while aligning base over bolts.
also useful for similars situations:
cut slot in piece of plastic like cottage cheeeses lid. those help hold boltta temp. some people ppl attach bolt to flange with a nut (buy a pair of stainless nuts in 10-24 or whatever flange bolt threads are)
i've already assumed you'd separated tank from base. unless neweish, the spongey washer below flush assembly (the big hole in center of tank) may be brittle and will leak when flushing.
do'nt use any steel parts (except perhaps the washers)
some hardware stores still sell crappy brass "finish" tank bolts. even more sell brass tank bolts (good) but the kit includes plain steel nuts. (i prescribe only *one* baseball bat to noggin for *these* store buyers)
common chrome/(nickel?) plated brass or stainless are not magnetic. so take magnetic tip screwdriver or fridge magnet to store to detect the crappy plain steel parts.
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I'll go with the others and remove tank. If you do, buy replacement bolts, nuts etc. You should find a kit that includes all the new parts It is cheap insurance.
Charlie

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BTW, once you finally do get the toilet set do not caulk around the base of the toilet, which 1) makes it difficult to detect leaks and 2) channels leaks UNDER the floor covering - both of which make it likely the future leaks (which WILL happen) will do greater damage.
Michael Thomas Paragon Home Inspection, LLC mdt@paragoninspectsDOTcom 847-475-5668
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All I have to say for all the great suggestions is TANKS a lot.
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Use a gob of flange wax to hold the bolts upright. snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

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