15 Amp vs. 20 Amp

15A receptacles are rated 20A for both halves. The UL standard tests them at 150% of rating, which I presume means 1/2 a 15A duples receptacle is tested at 22.5A. Posts in other threads have said that 15 & 20A receptacles are identical, including sockets for 20A plugs behind the 15A plastic face.

As HorneTD has said in a number of threads, the NEC requires the switch has to be large enough for the load. If a switch is connected to a light fixture, it would be a little difficult to lamp it at over 1200W, the rating for a 10A switch. Going through my box of salvaged switches I found several with a 10A 120V rating. The NEC is a pragmatic code; if there are problems the code is changed to deal with them.

Bud--

Reply to
Bud
Loading thread data ...

And this is why we have Murphy's Law. You don't size the switch to the intended load. You size the switch so it can't cause a fire. If that fixture endures a resistive short, and its passing 15A, not enough to blow the breaker, but too much for the switch, you have a serious problem. So I guess NEC needs an updating wrt/ Murphy's Law.

Reply to
CL (dnoyeB) Gilbert

Good point.

Reply to
CL (dnoyeB) Gilbert

On 08/05/05 10:09 am Chris Lewis tossed the following ingredients into the ever-growing pot of cybersoup:

Huh!? If you are switching a device or devices that pull 15A while operating, it's extremely unlikely that it/they will pull less than that at switch-on time. ISTM that the switching capacity should be higher than the "running" capacity.

Perce

Reply to
Percival P. Cassidy

A look at the Leviton and Cooper product lineups show all residential switches to be rated at 15 or 20 A. From the Leviton technical reference, AC/DC switches can be used on motor loads that are 50% of the switch rating (80% for AC only switches) . To qualify as a motor rated switch, an AC switch is tested at 6X the full load motor HP rating current, 10X for DC, and goes through 50 make/break cycles in addition to the normal overload endurance and heating tests

Your example of a 15A resistive short is 1800 watts. I would imagine governing bodies view the chance of a 15A switch made of fire retardant materials, installed in a box, and running a few amps over it's rating starting a fire is insignificant compared to the short itself.

Reply to
Rick

According to CL (dnoyeB) Gilbert :

Note that switches have (at least) two ratings. Interrupt rating and passthru.

Some switches may indeed have a 10A max _switch_ rating, but they're still rated 15A (or 20A) continuous. The switching rating is based on arc erosion.

_Most_ breakers have a relatively low switch rating. You're not supposed to use breakers as a power switch unless they're rated for it.

Reply to
Chris Lewis

According to Percival P. Cassidy :

The continuous rating is based around how much current can go through closed contacts without overheating.

This is radically different, and usually considerably _higher_ than you can do thousands of "make/break" cycles with.

The fact that a switch has a switch rating of 10A, with a continous current rating of 20A doesn't mean that it's deliberately designed for a circuit where this will happen all the time.

Not at all.

It just means that you limit the stuff you switch by it to 10A, but if you have a resistive short in the switched stuff that only passes

20A, the switch can safely pass the maximum current that the breaker will let through.
Reply to
Chris Lewis

HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.