Peaches

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wrote:

My reasoning is that I am either going to remove the tree completely, or I'm going to prune it hard. The tree will send out new shoots, of course there will be water spouts, there already are. The foliage on the tree is prolific, as is the fruit production, but only because we had a cool winter.
I'm going to give it an intermediate prune this week and this way the tree will give me new shoots for fruit in spring and in Feb (when we prune our fruit in Texas) I'll do a heavier prune. I do know I will have to use some type of fungicide, but it won't be anything toxic to insects or animals. I have some research to do.
Thanks for your patience with my notions. victoria
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summer pruning wont stimulate new growth, it is for shaping the tree.
wrote:

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snipped-for-privacy@wi.rr.com wrote:

I would qualify that statement to say small amounts of pruning are ok, but heavy
pruning will stimulate the tree to put out lots of new growth, usually in the form of water sprouts.
Sherwin
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jangchub wrote:

I don't remember, but it made sense for Austin when we got them.

I didn't mean to say the trees do not produce fruit. They do. We just don't get to eat any because they rot.
--
Victor M. Martinez
Owned and operated by the Fantastic Seven (TM)
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wrote:

Ah, okay. We started removing the very old wood on the tree today. We are only going to leave last years wood, and anything which grows out from this season. I am going to investigate how to curtail the brown rot, although the butterflies are so drunk out there I almost hate to deny them! There are literally thousands of butterflies, and all types at that. I don't think I've ever seen so many.
Removing the oldest wood has also removed the route the raccoons use to get up in there. They started marking their territory on top of our pavillion and we can't have that. Round worms are a very real thing I don't want to get involved with :(
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NO !!
See pruning http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/tree_pruning /
Proper mulching would be great!!!!
Mulching - http://home.ccil.org/~treeman/sub3.html and http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/M/ Look up "Mulch"
Sincerely, John A. Keslick, Jr. Arborist http://home.ccil.org/~treeman and www.treedictionary.com Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology. Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us that we are not the boss.
Sincerely, John A. Keslick, Jr. Arborist http://home.ccil.org/~treeman and www.treedictionary.com Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology. Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us that we are not the boss.
\
The tree is a good umbrella shape, but it is

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My Ortho Problem Solver suggests spraying your peaches about 3 weeks before harvest with a fungicide containing triforine. Besides the usual cleanup of infected material around the tree, next spring spray the tree as the first flowers begin to open with a fungicide containing either triforine or chlorothalonil as the first flowers begin to open. Continue spraying as the label suggests. That book again is 'The Ortho Home Gardener's Problem Solver'. They also have a more extensive version in a professional edition (more expensive).
I would trap the racoons and get rid of them. If you prune, don't cut off more than 1/3 of the tree in any season and do it in late fall or very early spring when the tree is dormant. I would also suggest planting a semi-dwarf tree instead of a full standard peach, next time.
Sherwin D.
jangchub wrote:

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No thank you. I am an organic gardener. If it means I won't ever get a healthy peach, so be it, but I will not be using anything Ortho puts out. I wouldn't trust them if it was labeled certified organic.
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jangchub wrote:

Spoken like a true believer.
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wrote:

Spoken like a true believer.
Charlie
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