leaves turning yellow on sycamore

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On Mon, 9 Jun 2008 22:07:11 -0400, "symplastless"

I've a scope, but no sycamores on my property or in the woods nearby. This is the land of Norway maple, quickly succumbing to blight all over the area.
Boron
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there's a Norway maple blight? that's great! i just had the huge Norway maple by the front corner of my house taken down. it'll be replaced with a sugar maple. there's a couple more Norways, smaller ones, that i'll take down later in the summer (once my surgery heals & if i don't have chemo). i HATE Norway maples & i'm delighted they're now on my state's noxious weed list so they can't be sold (or propagated) here anymore. lee
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wrote:

When I moved to this area, about 25 years ago, they were the township's standard by-the-curb shade tree. They grew fast and actually provided a decent amount of shade and color. I cannot complain about that. Short of overgrown ailanthus, I cannot really think of a tree that I dislike.
I started noticing the blight (I do not really know what it is, but I can google around later for hints) about 1-152 years ago and now at least half the Norway maples are affected or gone.
Many areas of my town have no "planted" trees by the curbside, and there is a fine, natural mix of hard and soft wood that thrives in the older neighborhoods.
This is an area (Northern NJ) hit particularly hard by chestnut blight in the last century and that lost a lot of trees then. I grew up in the Midwest (Detroit), with stately elms that are now long gone.
Boron
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Blights in NJ near here bring to mind Dogwood not Kousa and Minmosa (SP?). Got something my tree guy called Oak Rust which may be hurting our black oaks. White pines have a bore that takes out the top.
Bill
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wrote:> Blights in NJ near here bring to mind Dogwood not Kousa and Minmosa

The white pine weevil?
John
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Norway maple by the front corner of my

Just something I would want to know if I was planting trees. http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/T/tree_planting.html
Sincerely, John A. Keslick, Jr. Consulting Tree Biologist www.treedictionary.com Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology. Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us that we are not the boss. Some people will buy products they do not understand and not buy books that will give them understanding.

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We have a 30 year old sugar maple up front. Never tapped but my kids did many a pull up on the lower branches. But the Fall color is something that they still relish. Bright Yellow.
We name some of our trees that go with events.
Bill
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You never cease to amaze and stimulate my thoughts. :-)
Marvelous. Mnemonics.
Charlie
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the sugar maple in the middle of the front yard is probably pushing 100 years old. we lost a third of it to the tail end of hurricane Wanda a couple years ago & have talked about cutting the rest down, but i don't really want to (plus it's very close to power lines. the falling section took out power to the rest of our road & half the next town over. i'm not messing with that) that tree is flanked by 2 smaller sugar maples around 15 years old. the one on the side that broke is growing much faster now, as it actually gets more sun.

we've only planted one tree that was event related. it's a dogwood for the Malamute that died. if i ever get around to burying all the cremated cats, i could have a nice little forest...
lee
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wrote:

Hey Lee,
Don't take this as related to your last lines, :-)
but how are you doing, related to your health, or perhaps you don't care to speak of it. Still sending thoughts your way.
Care Charlie
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Charlie wrote in wrote:

heh heh

oh, quite well, thanks. the surgeon is very sure that she removed all the cancer. the oncologist was concerned about the

would have been into muscle & we didn't want to go there (and there was no need to. sure it's better to have larger margins, but sometimes that would cause more damage than help). also, the sentinal lymph nodes were clear. at this point it doesn't look like i'd need chemo, but i signed on to a research study on tumor genetics. they've been tracking genetic markers going back 25 years & have just started a study with current cancer patients. they can pretty well tell by which markers are in the tissue what the chances of recurrance are & in which patients chemo would reduce that risk. if i am in a low risk group, they know that chemo isn't needed & radiation is enough. if i'm high risk (which it doesn't look like i am, but the genetics may say otherwise), then i get chemo before i start radiation. if i'm medium risk, they toss a dice to see if i get chemo or not (but if i don't like the decision i can opt out & get my preference). so, other than not taking it as easy as i should have immediately after surgery & irritating the nerve cluster in my right arm, i'm doing quite well. this 'take it easy' stuff gets me to buckle down to weeding... no stress or excessive weight there :) i do need to transplant my pepper seedlings out soon (although it's still mid-40s at night). can i plant them deeper & get them to root along the stem like tomato seedlings? i haven't had transplant peppers in a while... and why does it take bushel & bottle gourds so long to germinate? lee
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wrote:

Snip...I'm a relatively new poster here, but certainly know you from rfc.
My best wishes for a speedy, uneventful and thorough recovery.
Boron
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yes, i have a collection of your ice cream recipes :)

thank you. are you in upstate NY? i have a summer camp northwest of Syracuse & we're thinking of moving somewhere upstate permanantly. lee
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wrote:

Something I, myself, will be making use of this weekend, I hope.

You are very welcome.

Northern NJ. I am only familiar with upstate NY as a devoted visitor, a passion I developed when I lived in Manhattan for many years. I am only a few miles from the NYS border here.
As long as you have work set up or other means of supporting yourself, there are some strikingly beautiful places up there.
Boron
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wrote:

Excellant! Good prognosis. Listen to your body.

When I transplant them I am not too careful about maintaining original ground level......I think I I do set them deeper, but if they root along the stem I don't know. I'll check some in the morning and see if that is the case.

Apparently they need hot weather and warm soil.
My zukes and cukes seem to have taken longer than normal to germ and arrive. I had given up on the zukes and was going to try again, but they appeared early this week after two weeks in the ground......seemed like a long time to me.

Care and good on the Good News Charlie
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I have docs, data, on specific specs on tapping. This are optimum suggestions based on a thorough understanding or the tree. If you are interested I do have copies. Where to tap, how to tap, how many times to tap, when repeated, how deep to tap, etc.
Shigo, A.L. 1984. How to Assess the Defect Status of a Stand Northern Journal of Applied Forestry; 1(3): 411-49 (Penn Sate has it)
Walters, Russell S. Sugarbush Management US. Dept. Agric. Forest Service, Gen. Tech. Report NE-72: 25-37; 1982 (Ohio state has it)
I would never think of tapping a tree without this data as a strict guide. Sugar maple is unique. Its a sapwood tree and does not form heartwood. The parenchyma cells can live for a hundred and fifty years if things go right. Its lends itself to tapping. A oak, healthy, may have parenchyma cells that live for less then twenty years because of heartwood formation. You can tap red and silver but a shorter window for tapping because the sap will get what is called buddy after a short period of time whereas the window for tapping a sugar maple is much longer.
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sugar maple also gets 'buddy', & i haven't noticed any difference in length of time after tapping. six weeks is the maximum run from any tree because after 6 weeks the tree is closing off the wound where the tap is. usually that's no an issue because the weather rarely cooperates for that long anyway. on the off chance it does, i usually have a set of trees that are large enough for 2 taps (never place more than 2 per tree!) that i only place one tap in & if the run goes for more than 4 weeks i'll go back & place the second tap. yes, i know the early run is the Grade A fancy stuff, but i prefer (& most people who aren't tourists prefer) a darker, more flavorful syrup, which is what you get from mid-season until it gets 'buddy'. so i'd really prefer to add taps as the season progresses to get the sap that makes the syrup that tastes good, instead of looks pretty.
lee
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Don't forget these: Shigo, A.L. 1984. How to Assess the Defect Status of a Stand Northern Journal of Applied Forestry; 1(3): 411-49 (Penn Sate has it)
Walters, Russell S. Sugarbush Management US. Dept. Agric. Forest Service, Gen. Tech. Report NE-72: 25-37; 1982 (Ohio state has it)
John

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"symplastless" wrote:

American Sycamore seed balls occur singularly... London Planetree seedballs occur in twos and threes.
Sycamore: http://www.hort.uconn.edu/Plants/p/plaocc/plaocc1.html
London Planetree: http://www.hort.uconn.edu/Plants/p/plaace/plaace1.html
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"symplastless" wrote:

American Sycamore seed balls occur singularly... London Planetree seedballs occur in twos and threes.
Sycamore: http://www.hort.uconn.edu/Plants/p/plaocc/plaocc1.html
London Planetree: http://www.hort.uconn.edu/Plants/p/plaace/plaace1.html
They do not look like ones I have seen of either?
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