We have a cyclamen in the house which gets indirect light at a SW window. We
have no success thus far...... modest watering results in leaves and blooms
to droop. More watering results in leaves turning yellow, and none of the
blooms or leaves look healthy and still hang down. We occasionally fertilize
with drops added to the water. What do we do wrong ?
1. Wrong light ? What is best light condition ?
2. Too much water, or too little ? Watering techniques ?
3. More or less fertilizing ? What is recommended ?
4. Repotting ? Special soil needed ?
Thanks for your views !
OK. I bought one back in January. It did beautifully until mid-May, but now
it looks like hell. I've been too busy with the outside garden to deal with
the cyclamen, but you've given me a reason to get out the book, "Crockett's
Indoor Garden". Here's a summary:
- Blooms October through late March or April.
- Needs sunlight or bright indirect light, and constant moisture when in
- Needs cool temperatures and "this is where most gardeners have problems".
Prefers nights in the 40s or low 50s. Tolerates up to 65, but won't do as
- Direct quote: C. persicum are very easy to keep from year to year, as long
as they're given some attention during summer. When they stop flowering,
reduce the amount of moisture they receive to the point where the soil is
allowed to dry out moderately before watering again. Keep in partial shade,
out of the sun.
Next, he's referring to the season after April, but when there's still the
possibility of late spring frosts:
- When the weather is warm enough, with night temps predicatably above 55
degrees, unpot them, shake off the old soil, and repot the corm, the
beetlike root from which the plant grows, in a 1-inch-larger pot of
commercial potting soil. *** Make sure that the corm is not set more deply
than it had been before repotting. As the corm ages, more and more of it
will grow above the soil line; ideally, it will be a third to halfway out of
the soil. Set the plant outside for the summer in a shady spot and keep the
soil barely moist. Old leaves will stay on the plant while the news ones
grow in. During the summer, the previous season's leaves will drop off. If
the corm's allowed to dry out completely, it'll lose all its foliage. But
even a bare corm will usually produce new growth again if given moisture.
I already see 3 mistakes I've made with mine. :-) By the way, the book is
worth owning, especially since you can get used copies from www.powells.com,
for less than ten dollars.
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