I'm replacing the lower level floor joists in a 135 yr old farm house.
Basically sitting 6" off the ground on a rock foundation. The current joists
(what's left of them) are rough oak 2x10 on 24" centers. Length = 15.5'.
If I go to 16" centers and support them in the middle, would a 2x8 Douglas
Fir be sufficient, or should I stay with the 2x10? Flooring will be
underlayment then 1x6 pine planking. (similar to original)
I had posted earlier but stoopid google-groups seems to have failed so
will make the comment again...
I had suggested I'd stick w/ the 2x10 but hadn't noticed the mid-point
additional support so agree with that a 2x8 is sufficient.
What I would add is that at least in a significant part of the country
trying to get a 16-ft 2x8 in Doug Fir would be like buying the
equivalent in FAS hardwood for pricing if could get it at all. For the
purpose, I'd probably just go P-T for the extra protection from
moisture and chewy critters at what would probably be half the cost or
less. (I tried to get some Doug Fir 1x for some restoration work here
to match some existing work and the local 'yard counter flunkies said
"Fur? What's that? -- Oh? Never heard of it." :( )
Steve Barker LT wrote:
Thanks for all the replies. I think I'll stick with the Douglas fir as it
is cheaper than PT here in Kansas City. If it took 135 years for the
originals to rot, then the DF should more than last the rest of my life.
I'm sure when I'm gone the house will be dozed for development.
"Glenn" < firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote in message
Hey There Kansans
I was wondering what the direct applied stucco (DAFS) market was like
near you? Kansas City seams to be a huge stucco market!! Especially
with the real stuff but I didn't know if anyone was using the direct
applied. Any feedback would be great!
Liberal, here...and, not MO! :)
You can get Doug fir in KC for less than PT??!!! From whom, may I ask?
I could get it through Star in Wichita was closest other than Amarillo
but only as special order for a premium from either last time I
checked. If I knew where to go, I'd probably make a planned excursion
on a family visit but bring the big truck or trailer instead of pickup
or car even though it's nearly an eight hour trip that way.
I agree that it will certainly last as long as not direct ground
contact. Wonderful stuff, 'tis.
Ya' know, one other thing struck me as just a thought--if there isn't
anything but the low crawl space and you're going to block/support in
middle of span anyway, maybe use eights instead of 16s simply for the
ease of handling in a cramped space? Particularly if you're working
alone might make the job a lot easier. Just a thought I figured I
Lowes and Home depot. Check their website and put in 66061 for your zip
I considered using two 8's or even an 8 and a 10 overlapped. But the 16'
er's are nice and straight at my local store and I'll have help.. With all
the walls down to studs, there is no problem carrying them through the
"dpb" < email@example.com> wrote in message
As mentioned the spans on the 2x8 with support in the middle appear
adequate, but I'd be very concerned about that "rock" foundation. In
California, we bolt down to the foundation very carefully, and given
the chance of tornado or flood, I'd do the same in Kansas, I suppose.
The supporting posts can settle too, and then you'll have an uneven
DF is rated better than any pine for supporting members, but as
mentioned too, it's worth painting them with some kind of termite/rot
resistant preservative especially since your current joists apparently
are rotted out. On the other hand, I think that for the complete span
without mid support, the 2x10s might not even be enough. Check the
Canadian DF charts which are available on the web. I forget the link,
but it can be easily Googled.
What's the underlayment? I'd use plywood, not that glue-composition
board stuff, and glue & screw it down to avoid creaking. I'm also
using old 1x6 DF planking for a floor in an new room above the garage,
but felt that I should run the edges of the boards over a router first
to create something of an overlap/tongue groove effect to hide the
finishing nails, get a tighter fit, and also avoid any sort of creaking
in the future. Between the plywood and subflooring, it seems to me
that some kind of roofing felt would also be wise, or that special
plastic stuff used below hardwood floors these days.
Are your pine floors painted or stained? Since my recycled DF is
discolored in places from nail holes, I figure that I should seal and
paint for a better look. But, I don't know what kind of paint to use
on a floor. I'll want a water-based paint, but I want a very durable
Steve Barker LT wrote:
After seeing it at my wife's cousin's house in NH, I believe we'll paint or
sponge paint the floor planks. She has one room that is merely plywood with
the seams carefully filled, sponge painted and bordered, and it looks like a
carpet until you get practically on it.
BTW, the original 2x10 were supported (if you can call it that) in the
middle. They had a 2 x 6 laying on it's side running the length of the
room, with a few rocks under it. LOL!
As for tying down, I rekon 135 years in the alley and it's still there. AND
we're on a hill to boot.
"Alan" < firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote in message
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