Turns out Woodpecker has two 24"rules, one mainly for measuring ($30) and one mainly for setting up tools($40)-it's called SERX. Both are Aluminum.
The first rule looks dandy, with it's engraved markings and angled edge. I would have expected it to be straight enough to use for both measuring AND setting up tools.
Can anyone shed anymorelight on this (Is it a racket? LOL ). Woodworkingshows is coming to town soon! : )
Bill
For actual woodworking i have the 48" and 34" version of the Story Stick pro. I use these multiple time on every project. Great for transferring an exact measurement, what ever it might be, from the actual project to the saw for perfect length cuts. I use it to lay out reference lines on both ends of the track for my track saw. The story stick pro reflects setting measurements on both sides of the measure. Useable on both sides at the same time.
I bought a SS 24" rule from Lee Valley mainly for drawing straight lines for bandsaw work. It is straight as far as I can tell, but LV advised me that it was not intended for that, they suggested that I buy a certified straight edge. I resisted.
I saw yours online and they look plenty straight enough for drawing pencil lines. I wonder why they call them "Cabinetmaker's Rules"? I wanted something to help set up a jointer (among other things). A selling point made is that the Aluminum won't dull the blades. If you can rest a rule on a cast iron surface, and can't see light under it, then the rule is probably flat enough, aye?
That's a clever application for it. I think you meant to type 48" and
24". I am planning to look at the 24" one (as you brought it to my attention a few weeks ago).Bill
Yeah 24". FWIW I use the longer one probably 5 times more than the shorter one.
I've bought a few of their products, always high quality. Occasionally they have great deals on clamps and drawer slides.
Mike M
In article , G.W.Ross wrote: i
I think you made the right choice for your intended use. Even of the rule is off a few thousandths compared to the "certified" straightedge over it's 24 inch length, how much difference would it make to a band saw cut?
Let me rephrase my question:
My only "fine measuring stick" is a 12" Starrett combination square.
Do I need more tools for setting up an 8" jointer or table saw properly?
Bill
Depending on the quality of your equipment you need to be able to measure in the thousands of an inch. For example to measure your TS blade being parallel to the miter slot and the fence parallel to the blade you are shooting for as close to perfectly parallel as you can get. Dial indicators which measure much smaller increments helps you get there especially when setting the miter slot to the blade. Typically rip fences are very easy to adjust in small increments and results are easily seen by your eye so in this case I never use a measuring devise to set the fence parallel to the blade.
These look dandy:
Also available in steel at twice the price.
Bill
Thanks, I already got have a dial indicator too. Obviously, the straight-edge is just for aligning the adjacent tables.
Ar article I read suggested "at least 24 straight-edge" for the jointer.
Bill
Not it it cuts true. :-) Just be sure the combo square is square. If it's a Starrett, it probably is. It's tough to find generics that are actually square. "get what you pay for" and all.
I got the 38 when it was on sale and I've been very pleased with it.
Depends upon the tool being setup, and to a point, the precision to which it is capable of being setup.
IOW, a high quality cabinet saw or jointer may allow more precision than most of the cheaper contractor saws or jointers ...
... although there is really only one way to adjust the miter slot to be parallel to the fence on most table saws, and that is by loosening the top, and banging it into alignment with all the precision of a hammer/mallet ... :)
As contrary as Ed Bennett can be, he makes one of the finest tools for woodshop tool setup that can probably be found on the planet.
The T-S Aligner Jr:
And yes, I do own one, and value it to the extent of having made a custom case for it:
Or use one of the magnetic blade holders to keep the blade in the correct alignment as you tighten the mounts.
I assume you mean that you set the fence parallel to the slot (after the slot is made parallel to the blade).
Made me go back and read mine ... that should be "miter slot to be parallel to the blade", fercrisskaes ...
I don't know how highly you regard Grizzly. But's that's the direction I'm heading (Models G0690 TS, and G0490 jointer). I even made a special trip to their showroom last summer while I was driving through MO--and got the T-shirt.
Yes, but you can adjust the fence parallel to the blade too but only after adjusting the blade to the slot.
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