Are there any common drill attachments that go in place of the chuck?
So that when the chuck is removed, the attachment can be screwed on in
place of the chuck.
I just need a keyword to search for. Assuming it exists. Of course it
would be drill chuck thread specific.
Mostly, it's consumer tool chucks that are threaded onto the spindle
Commercial metalworking tools usually use taper-mounted chucks. Common
among the tapers used is the Morse #2 taper.
If your chuck is taper-mounted in the spindle (not 'on' the spindle),
then _any_ tool having the same taper could be used in your spindle.
On Saturday, May 2, 2015 at 2:36:47 AM UTC-5, John Doe wrote:
And, continuing what Lloyd said, when the taper mounted drill is mounted it
s much steadier and stronger. It could also be cheaper, depending on how m
any different size drill bits you are going to use. But you need to go loo
king on the metal working side of the house.
One last thing, assuming your drill press does have a #2 Morse Taper, chang
ing the bits will only require a slight tap with the a drift designed for y
our drill press, which is a wedged shaped of steel that slides in the slot
on the quill and presses down on the end of the bit/taper.
Did you have to search, or were you waiting for an opportunity to mention
FWIW, Black & Decker has a similar unit in stores. I was totally
unimpressed with the one I got, the connection method looked reliable but
the motor and gear unit sounded terrible.
That's a good question. I can't think of anything that would
be screwed onto a drill in place of the chuck, other than
Bigger drills use a morse taper rather than a screw on chuck.
There are thousands of things that have a morse taper, but
most of those are intended for lathes, milling machines, etc.
Larger sizes of drill bits can be had with morse taper shanks
for directly installing in drill press (quicker to change bits
that way, as compared to using a chuck).
Well ... I have somewhere (or had somewhere) a device which fits
between the threaded chuck on a hand-held electric drill (called a
"drill motor") and the drill motor itself. It is a shaft, threaded male
on one end and female on the other, and it slides into a plastic housing
which tapers so you can grip it closer to the drill motor and the drill
bit can be retracted back into the housing. Its purpose is to use when
drilling overhead (ceiling, etc), where the six "feet" of the housing
hold the drill aproximately square to the surface, and it catches the
drillings to keep them from falling into your eyes.
I think that I used it once. :-)
And -- of course -- it only fit some of the drill motors which I
I could perhaps picture some kind of tapping head which would
replace the chuck, and which would have an extension to keep the body
from rotating relative to the drill motor. (Similar things, with Morse
taper adaptors, fit my drill press. The ones which I have are made by
TapMatic -- but I have never seen one with a thread to fit a drill
So there is the mt taper for going into the spindle,
and then they is usually but not always a J taper or sometimes other
tape for the MT arbor to the chuck.
There are wedges used to pop them apart. You can buy the reasonably.
They are meant to remove the part w/o destroying the chuck. The
pressure is put on the landing around the abor, not on the moveable ring
that tightens the chuck.
I think they can be had for around $16 ..
do the wedges go inside the chuck jaws
looking at the chuck that is my best guess
this drill press was a tool rescue
it was outdoors
it had fallen face first at some point
i cleaned the MT2 as it was falling out and could not get a
but i want to dismantle the chuck end and clean it also
You don't want to do what you're wanting to do. Jacobs
taper really don't want to be taken apart.
But anyway - the wedges go between the top of the chuck and
the shoulder on the arbor - assuming there is a shoulder on
the arbor, which there often isn't.
If there's no shoulder on the arbor, you turn the chuck
upside down and drill a big hole in the end, and use a
drift to drive the arbor out. Or better yet, a hydraulic
Be mindful of the direction to turn the retainer screw or bolt,
especially of it is a Philips head screw.
Most likely in the normal direction but for future reference,
Just remember that the screw tightens in the opposite direction that the
drill spins to drill a hole. To loosen turn in the direction that the
drill normally spins. Just like most anything that retains a spinning
you were correct about the J taper it looked like MT3 but
regardless I got that free from the chuck as there was a hole in the
top of the chuck and it was easy to use a punch inside the chuck jaws
my next step was to dismantle the chuck
i bored a hole in a 2x4 and tried to press the piece apart but the
2x4 wasn't hard enough and did not survive so i need to try some
found some good instructions albeit conflicting about whether or
not jaws should be closed or half way, etc.
i tried the half way suggestion
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