Beginners Poly Application/Tack Cloth question

I just tried poly (Minwax wipe-on) for the first time. I used the tack cloth to remove dust before applying it (I never used a tack rag before either).

The tack rag left my fingers sticky enough that I was concerned that it's adhesive may have stuck to the wood and interfered with my finish (as I had to use soap to get it off my hands), but the finish seemed to go on nice enough

Question: Can I use the tack rag after sanding between coats without worry of it interferring with my finish?

BTW, Mike Marlow: I used a wire as you suggested (and an eye-screw) slung around the end of a 2by4 to keep my project off the ground.

For anyone following my "big project", I've got the new switchbox, EMT, AlFLEX, and the drywall replaced. Now I just need to "pretty up" my new drywall on 3 walls. Yesterday I swept-up everything, first time in a long time--it really did made me feel better. Then I bought a roll of

28" wide "contractors paper" to put along the walls (65'). I figured I could mark it off in 20 squares or so (yes, like in Monopoly), number them, and I expect that it would be helpful for QA. Without this, or some other system, I would find the compexity of keeping track of every blemish a bit overwhelming. I myself don't find the process as uniform as what they show in the books! ; ) I guess that comes with time and practice! I'm the kind of person who is not afraid to rip out and re-tape a joint, and when you're like that, the "uniformity in the process" breaks down! ; )

Yesterday, my first day with a drywall knife in my hands for almost a year, I quickly re-learned what I regard as the KEY IDEA concerning the application of drywall mud. Know that "good enough" is good enough, especially in the early stages! : ) I remembered the key idea, but I just had to challenge it, which of course just reinforced why it's the key idea! : )

Have fun! Bill

Reply to
Bill
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I just put on the 2nd coat. Comment: The finish sure seems thin. It may take alot of coats to get the protective finish I'm looking for!

The wood seems to absorb the finish very, very fast. So fast that I'm not the least bit worried about dust...lol. The last related finish I used was varnish and, IIRC, it seemed to go on thicker--and stay wet longer.

Bill

Reply to
Bill

I just put on the 2nd coat. Comment: The finish sure seems thin. It may take alot of coats to get the protective finish I'm looking for!

The wood seems to absorb the finish very, very fast. So fast that I'm not the least bit worried about dust...lol. The last related finish I used was varnish and, IIRC, it seemed to go on thicker--and stay wet longer. ==================================================================================== Wipe on poly is very thin so it goes on easy but it takes many more coats.

Bill

Reply to
CW

Yes.

Tack rags have some varnish in them, that's why they are sticky. IMO, microfiber cloth does as least as good a job and they are washable.

Reply to
dadiOH

Yes. Tach rags are typically made/saturated with the same finish material you are putting on the piece, Varnish.

Reply to
Leon

Yeah. If you want this process to go faster, I use General Finishes ArmrSeal when I need a thick finish. I apply the first sealer coat with a rag and the next/last coat with a Wooster foam brush.

FWIW Varnish is a generic term. By definition, almost any final protective coat is a type of varnish.

Reply to
Leon

There is no need. Denibbing (sanding between coats) leaves very little dust. I use my shop brush and/or a dry rag to dust in between.

That's the nature of wipe-on, just like Waterlox, and Watco, as well as hand-rubbed spray lacquer. They go on a couple thou thick each coat, but they leave a finish the hand likes to touch, which makes the extra work very well worth it.

Brush-on finishes are like that. Wipe-ons look wetter later, after you get a few coats on. It builds up from a sealer coat into your "protective finish" after the third coat, usually. Dunno 'bout poly. I refuse to use it again.

-- When we are planning for posterity, we ought to remember that virtue is not hereditary. -- Thomas Paine

(comparing Paine to the current CONgress )

Reply to
Larry Jaques

I've applied 2 coats and am waiting the 24 hours, as suggested just about everywhere one might look, before proceeding.

I looked up "denibbing", and I don't think I have any nibs (LOL)! As I mentioned earlier, the finish was practically dry as soon as I was done applying it. This was no-doubt facilitated by the steady 90+ degree temperature in the finishing room. This may change after I build up an "undercoat" and less absorbtion occurs.

Is it still a good idea to give it a quick once over with 320 grit even if it still feels smooth to the touch? I assume so just in case the grain may have swollen and I can't tell...no nibs though! FWIW, the wood is hard maple.

Cheers, Bill

Reply to
Bill

Don't worry about the "nibs" until you are finished. Then rub it all down with a paper sack or printer paper.

Reply to
Leon

I hear they tend to hibernate readily back east. (That's anywhere east of Idaho.)

Wait until it's dry and rub your hand over the finish. Feel any imperfections? Those are dust, nibs, paintbrush fibers, and raised wood fibers. A quick swipe with a piece of 400 grit sandpaper, a piece of brown paper bag, or a light pass with a cabinet scraper will take them down. Wipe off with a lint-free rag and recoat. I've been known to blow them off, too, but I don't go for super-glossy finishes and overlook tiny specks of very, very fine dust.

Yeah, 320 or finer. And I mean QUICK. Do not hover anywhere, just swipe it across all finished areas (-with- the grain, please) and dust off.

-- When we are planning for posterity, we ought to remember that virtue is not hereditary. -- Thomas Paine

(comparing Paine to the current CONgress )

Reply to
Larry Jaques

I prefer to catch anything before it's embedded in finish, thanks. It's very quick and simple to do, so I do it. YMMV.

-- When we are planning for posterity, we ought to remember that virtue is not hereditary. -- Thomas Paine

(comparing Paine to the current CONgress )

Reply to
Larry Jaques

Okay, thank you for all of those suggestions. Will Do!

It's good that you mention them because I occasionally hover! : )

Bill

Reply to
Bill

Do you think an application of Johnson's paste wax improve the durability of the (satin) finish? Since it's going to be my custom honing strop, I would like to be able to wipe the "black muck" off of it. I'll take a picture of it before I start using it, just in case. ; )

Bill

Reply to
Bill

'Occasionally' my ass, Mr. A.R. You'll probably wax individual fibers of wood, too.

-- When we are planning for posterity, we ought to remember that virtue is not hereditary. -- Thomas Paine

(comparing Paine to the current CONgress )

Reply to
Larry Jaques

Why do yo find it necessary to wipe down the nibs between coats?? Why don't you simply get them all after the final coat?

I neeeeeeeeeeeever treat between coats.

Reply to
Leon

Again, I don't want to embed them in finish. It adds, what, mebbe 5-7 minutes (max) to a project?

True, but you slather stain and poly all over everything, too. Ewwwwwwwwwwww!

-- When we are planning for posterity, we ought to remember that virtue is not hereditary. -- Thomas Paine

(comparing Paine to the current CONgress )

Reply to
Larry Jaques

Well that is fine but if you are knocking down nibs with paper between coats you are not preventing embedding. IMHO you are simply adding an unnecessary step between coats. Now if the product instructions call for scuffing that is another matter.

Reply to
Leon

NO!, no more so than laying paper on top of the finish. The wax will not protect any more than the product you using for the finish.

Wax on bare wood will improve water resistance for a bit.

I mainly use wax as a lubricant. I use it to make drawers, with out mechanical slides, slide easier. And that tends to last a long time. I also use it to lube screws.

Reply to
Leon

Mike said you talk out your ass. He said ass. ;~)

Reply to
Leon

If you wish to leave crap in your finish, fine. I wish to minimize it, and that takes denibbing between coats. Just a difference of opinion. As I said, YMMV.

-- When we are planning for posterity, we ought to remember that virtue is not hereditary. -- Thomas Paine

(comparing Paine to the current CONgress )

Reply to
Larry Jaques

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