Window experts...

[Tim Lamb]

I have reached the stage where I need to decide what to do about windows for my barn re-build.

The original plan was to clean up and re-use the pine ones probably fitted around WWII. However, these have been adapted to allow ventilation suitable for housing dairy cattle and are best added to a late bonfire.

I probably have enough Oak to make new ones (having looked at supplier prices) but need advice on the feasibility. At present I am only considering non-opening double glazed units of around 3'x2' and can probably get access to a spindle moulder to cut rebates. However, studying the originals, I can see that the sills slope, presumably to encourage any water penetration to leave by gravity. For security reasons, I had hoped to cut the rebates such that the glazing would be fitted from the inside. With modern sealants, will this be OK?

Also, what rebate depth and height is required to hide the metal bezel on current sealed double glazing units?

regards

[Cicero]

=============================== Starting with your last question. The visible height of the 'metal bezel' is about 12mm and that appears to be a standard. The depth of rebate required varies because double glazing comes in various widths - 11mm,

14mm, 28mm etc. You decide what thickness of DG you want and cut rebates accordingly.

Most of the work required for such basic frames including the sloping sill could be done on a small bench saw:

e.g.http://www.machinemart.co.uk/product.asp?p=060610751&r=2124&g=116An electric hand planer would also help.

You would need to cut mortices and tenons for the joints probably by drilling and chiselling.

There's no reason why the DG units shouldn't be fitted from the inside provided that they're properly sealed on the outer side and held in firmly with beading on the inside.

All the above assumes that you can cut the available oak to suitable thicknesses.

Cic.

[dom]

Hi Tim - rebated, internally direct glazed, oak frames - tiptop. I made my own hardwood windows for the chapel by cutting the rebates and sill profiles on a table saw, after fixing on 4/16/4 DG units. I used butyl glazing tape matched to 16mm depth rebates to hide the glazing spacer (be aware you can specify other colours than silver for the spacer). Also smart to have drainage sipes under the bottom of the glass (which should be stood on rubber spacer blocks) in the rebate. I used scribed joints between sills/heads and jambs (no tenon joints) and held together with large (6*100) screws - 3 at each corner. Several maunfacturers are using this technique as it means all wooden components can be fully treated and there is no mortice for moisture to creep into.

Chapter and verse of tiptop advice from TRADA here:

[Peter Crosland]

Before you spend lots of money what does your planning approval say with regard to materials and design?

Peter Crosland

[Andy Hall]

Bureaucracy being much more important than feasibility of course.....

[CWatters]

It's the way ours have just been fitted. They used a clear silicon (special?) to seal them in the frames.

Try asking Go Glass.

Minimium height is about 15mm I belive but 18-20 is better. Gives you scope to move the glass around to center the pane in the opening.

Depth is thickness of the sealed unit (they come in various thicknesses) plus about 15-20 mm for the beading.

Don't forget that if you fit windows yourself you need to make a Building Control Application. The only way to avoid that is to use a "Scheme member" (ex. Fensa member) to do the installation for you. This applies equally to replacement windows but not just replacement glass.

[Tim Lamb]

In message , Cicero writes

OK. At some future stage I might need to meet building reg. requirements.

Yes. My main circular saw will cut 6" and the width guide can be tilted to cut chamfers (usually needs a firring piece to stop the blade snatching). The cheapo bench saw suffers from a plastic insert which flexes under load and is a mm or so below the table surface. For precision work, the usual trick is to cut a slot in some thin ply and clamp that to the table.

I have a powered morticer.

And that it doesn't shrink/warp etc:-)

ta.

regards

[Tim Lamb]

In message , " [e-mail]" writes

Drained to where?

I'll probably stick with the M&Ts.

regards

>

[Tim Lamb]

In message , Peter Crosland writes

Currently agricultural so planning not relevant although I am trying to retain original features and meet building regs. for future proofing.

regards

[Tim Lamb]

In message , CWatters writes

Currently agricultural but I will make sure the units meet the requirements AFAIC.

regards