we just bought a AEG B8871-4 oven there's no load, power or curent rating anywhere on the oven or in the manual, only a "fuse" rating of 20 Amps. Connections are made via screw terminals - there's no plug
My spark had said that most ovens can sit on a socket on the mains ring he recently installed.
Will this one ?
Or should I install a separate cooker cicuit in 6 mm2 T&E to a separate MCB in my new Consumer Unit ? (It's about a 10 metre cable run, under floor and in plaster wall. should i use 10mm2 T&E ??)
-Andy-
p.s. AEG's customer care line play continuous Westlife & Barry Manilow , then tell me the fuse is 20 A.
No, in the absence of any better information. All appliances must have a rating plate. It may be hidden in the door hinge (often somewhere still accessible after a fitted oven is installed).
For this oven, a 2.5mm^2 run would be OK on a B20 MCB, but I always put in the conventional 6mm^2 cooker run, which would enable it to be used for a hob in the future (still with a B20 MCB for now though).
Don't the new rules prevent him putting in his own new circuit? He can modify an old one though if it exists although that's dubious if it's in the kitchen. If it's a fixed installation it will need earth bonding as well. So unless he pays a sparky to put in, a 13 Amp socket will do. A new 13 Amp fuse in a plug will pass 20 Amps without any problem.
True, but if so they are provided (legally) with a pre-fitted 13A plug. The absence of one here is really all the info you need to show that this appliance can't simply be plugged into a ring main.
For one (pragmatic) thing, mixing ovens and RCDs is often an annoyance after a few years. Now you can easily split-load a cooker feed away from trouble, but hardly the ring.
I believe your reply to be wide of the mark. I would agree with you the ideal is not to bodge things yet the act is quite specific for any fixed wiring in a kitchen to be included in Part P. If your interpretation of the following link is different from this then please do point out my failings of my understanding of the English language.
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" SCHEDULE 2B Regulation 12(5)
DESCRIPTIONS OF WORK WHERE NO BUILDING NOTICE OR DEPOSIT OF FULL PLANS REQUIRED
Work consisting of -
(a) replacing any socket-outlet, control switch or ceiling rose;
(b) replacing a damaged cable for a single circuit only;
(c) re-fixing or replacing enclosures of existing installation components, where the circuit protective measures are unaffected;
(d) providing mechanical protection to an existing fixed installation, where the circuit protective measures and current carrying capacity of conductors are unaffected by the increased thermal insulation.
Work which -
(a) is not in a kitchen, or a special location,
(b) does not involve work on a special installation, and
(c) consists of -
(i) adding light fittings and switches to an existing circuit;
(ii) adding socket outlets and fused spurs to an existing ring or radial circuit; or
(iii) installing or upgrading main or supplementary equipotential bonding.
It is rated at and requires fusing at 20A. Where does the 2.9kW come from? Unless the OP got it wrong and it required fusing at no greater than 20A, but 13A is fine.
We're across purposes. I can't see the advantage of paying best part of £200 for a building notice and an inspection so I can do the job properly or for free if I bodge it and use a 13 Amp socket.
ok thanks I've put 6mm2 cable in, future proof if we ever change to a double oven or microwave included type. I'll get a spark to do final cabling to a 20 mcb at the consumer unit and a 40A switch. Still no sign of a power rating label on the AEG though. Thanks everybody.
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