Will this oven go on the ring mains??

we just bought a AEG B8871-4 oven there's no load, power or curent rating anywhere on the oven or in the manual, only a "fuse" rating of 20 Amps. Connections are made via screw terminals - there's no plug

My spark had said that most ovens can sit on a socket on the mains ring he recently installed.

Will this one ?

Or should I install a separate cooker cicuit in 6 mm2 T&E to a separate MCB in my new Consumer Unit ? (It's about a 10 metre cable run, under floor and in plaster wall. should i use 10mm2 T&E ??)

-Andy-

p.s. AEG's customer care line play continuous Westlife & Barry Manilow , then tell me the fuse is 20 A.

Reply to
AndyW
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No, in the absence of any better information. All appliances must have a rating plate. It may be hidden in the door hinge (often somewhere still accessible after a fitted oven is installed).

For this oven, a 2.5mm^2 run would be OK on a B20 MCB, but I always put in the conventional 6mm^2 cooker run, which would enable it to be used for a hob in the future (still with a B20 MCB for now though).

Reply to
Andrew Gabriel

Don't the new rules prevent him putting in his own new circuit? He can modify an old one though if it exists although that's dubious if it's in the kitchen. If it's a fixed installation it will need earth bonding as well. So unless he pays a sparky to put in, a 13 Amp socket will do. A new 13 Amp fuse in a plug will pass 20 Amps without any problem.

It's called progress.

Reply to
Fred

That's optional. There's no regulatory requirement for earth bonding in a kitchen (although I do it myself within reach of the sink area).

Do the job correctly -- don't use the new rules as an excuse to bodge things.

Reply to
Andrew Gabriel

True, but if so they are provided (legally) with a pre-fitted 13A plug. The absence of one here is really all the info you need to show that this appliance can't simply be plugged into a ring main.

David

Reply to
Lobster

As it appears to be rated at 2.9kW - why not?

Reply to
Peter Parry

For one (pragmatic) thing, mixing ovens and RCDs is often an annoyance after a few years. Now you can easily split-load a cooker feed away from trouble, but hardly the ring.

Reply to
Andy Dingley

I believe your reply to be wide of the mark. I would agree with you the ideal is not to bodge things yet the act is quite specific for any fixed wiring in a kitchen to be included in Part P. If your interpretation of the following link is different from this then please do point out my failings of my understanding of the English language.

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" SCHEDULE 2B Regulation 12(5)

DESCRIPTIONS OF WORK WHERE NO BUILDING NOTICE OR DEPOSIT OF FULL PLANS REQUIRED

  1. Work consisting of -

(a) replacing any socket-outlet, control switch or ceiling rose;

(b) replacing a damaged cable for a single circuit only;

(c) re-fixing or replacing enclosures of existing installation components, where the circuit protective measures are unaffected;

(d) providing mechanical protection to an existing fixed installation, where the circuit protective measures and current carrying capacity of conductors are unaffected by the increased thermal insulation.

  1. Work which -

(a) is not in a kitchen, or a special location,

(b) does not involve work on a special installation, and

(c) consists of -

(i) adding light fittings and switches to an existing circuit;

(ii) adding socket outlets and fused spurs to an existing ring or radial circuit; or

(iii) installing or upgrading main or supplementary equipotential bonding.

Reply to
Fred

You are listing situations where no Building Notice is required. Nothing in the legislation prevents you doing any of the wiring yourself.

Reply to
Andrew Gabriel

It is rated at and requires fusing at 20A. Where does the 2.9kW come from? Unless the OP got it wrong and it required fusing at no greater than 20A, but 13A is fine.

Christian.

Reply to
Christian McArdle

We're across purposes. I can't see the advantage of paying best part of £200 for a building notice and an inspection so I can do the job properly or for free if I bodge it and use a 13 Amp socket.

Reply to
Fred

The advantage is that the job is done properly.

Of course, many people would just do the job properly and not pay £200 for a building notice :-)

Reply to
Owain

Reply to
Peter Parry

Where exactly?

I can't find the manual for the B8871-4 on their website.

I've found them for some apparently similar models, the B3100-4 and the B5741-4.

They specify in all cases that a dedicated cooker control circuit is required.

B3100-4 = 2.5mm T&E minimum fused 15A

Reply to
Christian McArdle

AEG :-)

There is this wonderful new invention for digitising speech and transmitting it over long distances. Telephonic apparatus is its name.

I had to call them about something entirely unrelated and whilst waiting for the answer asked them about this.

Reply to
Peter Parry

In article , Peter Parry writes

Yes but the advantages of that is offset by the older callus centus;(

Reply to
tony sayer

ok thanks I've put 6mm2 cable in, future proof if we ever change to a double oven or microwave included type. I'll get a spark to do final cabling to a 20 mcb at the consumer unit and a 40A switch. Still no sign of a power rating label on the AEG though. Thanks everybody.

-A-

Reply to
AndyW

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