It is probably technically possible to rewire it. However, it will cost lots more than the appropriate size of isolation transformer. (which you could conceal, as long as it has ventilation).
A 600W transformer (or better, an 800W) one would be fine. Screwfix have a 3000W one for 50 quid or so, so you'll be looking at paying somewhat less.
They've also got building site types cheaper, provided it doesn't matter than neutral and earth are at different potentials and you don't mind BS3535 isolation.*
Christian.
I didn't realise that transformers of that size could comply with BS3535. Does that mean you could use them in a bathroom?
However, a site transformer, SD TR750/1 would as well, is isolated and it doesn't matter if it gets a bit wet in the kitchen. Half the price as well, if not a thing of beauty. You may like bright yellow of course......
That's the one I was looking at. If buying one, I'd be tempted to buy a 3kVA tucked away in a spare cupboard. You could then run a couple of 110V US style sockets around the house to a 110V industrial plug. Your US visitors will love you, and you can always borrow the transformer every time you hire something 110V from the hire shop and want to save yourself a couple of quid. Alternatively you can start buying proper 110V tools yourself.
Given that most prefer cordless stuff anyway regardless of the performance disadvantage, I'd say the idea of having to lug round a heavy transformer as well is a total no-no.
Beware, there are apparently some US devices where the voltage on the neutral ends up on the chassis due to some strange practice thats illegal here. This can prove dangerous when used with a 240-110 transformer. So I'd want to check the appliance to ensure this isnt a problem in this case.
Finally you'd only need a 575 watt continuous rated TF if you plan to run the blender continuously. If youre only going to run it for say 6 minutes per hour, you can use a TF rated to produce 575w for 6 mins per hour intermittent use. This will be a fraction of the size and price - just ensure it has a self resetting overheat cutout.
FWLIW there is a small cheap compact way to do it involving series running with a halogen bulb, but I wouldnt recommend it unless you understand the implications of the differing run powers, ie start current, rated load current, offload current and stall current, and ditto for the halogen bulb(s), ie cold R vs hot R and so on. If you get it wrong things can fry.
1) These units are often noisy - hum.
2) The transformers are built down to a price and have very high losses from magnetising currents. The running costs for a unit on all the time and unused are quite high.
I've a couple used in this manner, but they are only connected when necessary, for the above reasons.
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