uPVC Windowsw - d-i-y?

To replace the existing window in our bathroom I'm considering fitting a uPVC unit as a d-i-y project. I've been looking at U-Fit

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where a window of the size and spec that I want will be about ?140. What are the gotcha's to be wary of with a job like this? Is it a viable d-i-y exercise, or is it worth the extra to have the job done by professional fitters? Does anyone have first-hand experience of the above company? Are the better suppliers (I'm located in Lancashire)?

TIA

Reply to
nog
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I've been *told* that fitting uPVC windows is a piece of weewee. I have helped with just one and it was a lot easier than I expected it to be.

Si

Reply to
Mungo "two sheds" Toadfoot

This is a modest-size window (c. 700 x 1100mm) so that's quite encouraging. What does bother me is that the measuring advice on the site recommends specifying a frame size 10mm smaller than the aperture. I had thought that window frames exceeded the size of the brick aperture (the inner aperture being somewhat larger).

Reply to
nog

I fitted both a stock size UPC window and patio doors bought from Screwfix. Both to the kitchen/breakfast room, so ground floor. Although my house is old, the openings for both the window and doors were made only some 25 years ago, for stock sizes at that time. In wood, which had rotted. ;-)

The stock size window from Screwfix was about 1.5 inches smaller than the original width wise, so I removed bricks down one side and replaced with secondhand matching to give the correct clearance. I also added a course of creasing tiles to the bottom of the opening for the same reason. The inside of the window reveal and the wall is tiled in 2x2" mosaics, and I reckoned I could position the new window so that there would only be full tiles on the wall - not bits down the sides as before. Being mosaics designed for floor and or worktop use as well as walls, they came off without breaking - although I had a box of spares. I used plasterboard on battens on the side where it was out by the inch or so - the other side I removed the plaster and replaced it to the correct depth.

The opening for the patio doors was within tolerance. So I'd near zero making good to the inside.

The instructions with these units were ok - although like all these it's best to read them a few times over a couple of days before starting - if you've not done this sort of thing before.

I'm impressed with the quality of these windows. At least as good as any I've seen pro fitted - but of course I've not seen that many. ;-) I gave them a good wash this morning, and they've come up as good as new.

If you have average DIY skills, I'd say go for it. Pro fitters need a fast turn round to make their profit - and often seem to either bodge things, or make good in perhaps not quite the way you'd prefer.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

I dunno which frames would fit up against the inside the brick aperture - it would make the internal plaster rather thick? It's common for the inside of say a sash window to sit flush with the plaster, of course. With a cement fillet to the outside. But the frame itself is smaller than the brick aperture.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

I've just fitted one myself. Never done it before, it really was a piece of cake. Hardest part was getting the old frame out. Got mine from Dunster House

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Window had two panes, top one opening, 1032mm x 546mm. Cost £80 plus Vat. I collected from the factory so I don't know what delivery cost is. Very pleased with the product. Ed

Reply to
Ed Rear

uPVC is the Turkey Twizzler of windows. Use wood, larch Douglas fir or, best of all, oak. You know it makes sense.

Reply to
Biff

But uPVC will do fine in this particular case - it's a bathroom window on the ground floor and, externally, it's in a recess beneath a staircase so appearance matters not although, for the same reason, security _is_ a concern.

Reply to
nog

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