I believe it is a TV programme imported from Australia watched mainly watched by Women* after returning from a shopping spree at Iceland. It fills the void between then and opening the produce they bought there to feed their fat offspring when it arrives back from school.
*Why do so many even in their late teens have an arse like an Elephant now, Genetic mutation to sit on cheap black faux leather sofas without sinking in ?G.Harman
ok :) Rubble or concrete blocks on slats of scrap on the timber frame also works. Gloop the PB to them for better performance. I'd definitely roughly splodge plaster on the back of the PB before offering it up to the frame too.
I filled a flimsy timber frame wall with gravel, it really helped. The wiki article discusses it.
Refit the secondary glazing and sound levels will go down again - but now it'll be tertiary glazing.
NT
+1. the standard trick is to build a double stud wall that doesnt actually touch the party wall and full it with dry sand and skin it with plasterboard.
And seal it with caulk
Watch out for common loft spaces though and indeed common or adjacent chimneys..put me ear to my chimney ad I can gear people taking in the next room Up one stack and down the other..
Mineral wool useless. air gaps everywhere. Dry sand is the answer.
Only acoustic use of mineral wool is to break up reflections off a hard surface
And that's not really an issue.
Mass an compliance and damping is what you want. sand has them all.
I'll give that idea some thought, really don't want tonnes of sand to find its way out from behind a wall into the room. How do you fill the highest section?
It's not a common loft, but the brickwork does get decidedly slapdash between the first floor ceiling and the apex, I intend to get the squirty foam gun up there, that could explain noise from upstairs bedrooms going up into loft, across and down into neighbouring bedroom, but it doesn't explain the noise from lounge to neighbouring lounge.
And just how do you fill a freestanding stud wall with sand?
Which is what I said. it will help prevent the cavities formed by the stud work resonating
It can be. And it is a cheap way of helping prevent it.
Except that it's useless for this particular task.
Isn't that more about stopping a metal sheet acting as a resonator (I realise my problem wall is a resonator too, but I'd think a product designed to tame one might not be the best for the other).
Indeed.. Sometimes used on Radio and Recording studio doors. Have to be rather good hinges or a few more of them of course;)...
>
Sand is quite common for adding mass to floors (coffins). Bit more tricky filling a wall with it.
I've recently removed internal lath/plaster, and moved the internal wall back under the eaves, revealing 9" solid brick in what was the roof void. The mortar all looked pretty ropey, but I didn't give it much thought, thinking it'd be boarded/skimmed and that'd be that.
However, recently I've noticed a hell of a breeze, and in the main it's been coming through these exposed bits of wall. My neighbours are pretty quiet, but certain sounds (voices for example) do seem to travel - the holey wall can't help.
AcoustiBlok seems impressive, OK so this demo is against air-borne noise, but all the same ...
However it seems to only be sold over here by the square kilometre, I think a plan is forming ...
relocate all aerial and mains sockets from the party wall, cement render the old channels and back box holes.
Metal U&C stud wall parallel to party wall, fixed only to concrete floor and joists above, sealant round all edges.
Infill with wool & membrane sandwich quilt
then horizontal resilient bars (or maybe top hat studs on genie clips?)
topped off with two staggered layers of acoustic plasterboard, with a layer of heavy mat sandwiched between them.
Whether or not to also cover round the chimney breast? various random websites say generally don't bother, my chimney isn't tied into the party wall brickwork, and it'll undo my recent TV bracket and AV cabinet work, the noise that seems to "come straight through" the walls either side of the chimney doesn't seem to do the same through the chimney, of course by comparison it might be left as the weakest link after those walls are improved, in which case maybe one of the thinner "panels" from the same website over the chimney as a bit of an afterthought?
All in £650'ish for materials, worth a punt at that price, I'm more likely to kick myself for not doing it while the room is trashed anyway, than trying it and the reduction not living up to expectations.
Easy! Ingenious use of the left over lead sheet from up thread & old Reader's Digest DIY compendiums from the 1950s:-)
Ah the depth of practical knowledge displayed on this DIY ng sometimes amazes me :-D
Someone once advocated putting sand above a patch plasterboard ceiling repair - from below.....:-o
Jim K
Quite. I've been involved with sound proofing of TV sets built on location for quite some time, and by far and away the best value material to do this with is plasterboard. There may well be better performing materials if cost doesn't matter, though. Sand is an excellent way of adding mass too - if it is practical to use.
patch repair? For best results one would stick sand all over, not just in one small spot. I did find it very strange that you couldnt work out how to get little bags of sand, or even loose sand, on top of a sheet of PB. I sure dont find it a challenge.
NT
ebay, around 18 quid m^2 for 10kg
That's exactly right. You need MASS that is not connected mechanically to the party wall. What I did was to build a new stud wall, not connected t o the party wall, 50mm gap between back of studs and party wall, used three layers of plasterboard screwed and glued to make a single heavy mass, arra nged so p/b joints were not lined up, p/b caulked carefully at the edges, r ockwool filled between it and the party wall. Then I built another one in front of that just to be sure.
They do make special plasterboard ('acoustiboard'?) that is very dense. Th en you don't need three layers but you get a slipped disk from lifting it.
I built this on the existing floorboards. Downstairs I also built a small brick wall under the floor to block the flanking path but I don't think thi s was needed.
This was pretty effective - better than wearing good earplugs.
Robert
A sentence only needs to have a verb does it not? so "go" would be shorter than "i am".
In article , RobertL scribeth thus
Humm .. well "I do" is the longest;!..
.. Well it is almost Friday;)..
Yes - it's actually part of the tag, but my system decided the whole thing is too long, so only sends the first part. ;-)
When I did a similar job in my living room, I used two layers of fireboard with staggered joints (over isolated studs and rockwool), on the receommendation of my plasterer. He reckoned it's as good as acoustic pb but much cheaper. Seems to have worked fine.
It was cetainly 'king heavy to shift on my own, after it was delivered to the driveway ('more than my job's worth to take it any further mate'). Was glad I had bought a pb carrier or I would never have got it inside before it rained.
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