Some may remember my question from a week or so ago about fitting a gas meter box. I have fitted the box and it all went fine, no calamaties with the whole wall collapsing and it has turned out pretty neatly.
My next question relates to the earth wire which must be run to a point just after the meter. Do I need to sleeve this wire as it comes through the wall or will the PVC coating suffice?
Thanks Luke
The cable doesn't need sleeving for it's protection, but you do need to prevent any leaking gas getting into the wall.
Why are you running the earth through the wall anyway? Just connect it to the pipe on the inside, as it emerges from the sleeve.
Thanks. If I understand you correctly you are suggesting I connect the earth to the gas pipe on the inside of the house whereas I was under the impression the earth connection had to be sited JUST AFTER the gas meter, i.e. in the box. Therefore I have planned to run the earth out from under the floor void, next to the gas pipe and then up to the meter. Photo here:
Luke
Doesn't the earth connection have to be to the metal of the pipe that emerges from the ground ie before any joints/meters etc...
Or does that vary depending on the stype of electricity supply and this connection just being an equipotential bond (better consumer side of the meter) or part of the safety earth bonding (better supply side)?
Thanks. If I understand you correctly you are suggesting I connect the earth to the gas pipe on the inside of the house whereas I was under the impression the earth connection had to be sited JUST AFTER the gas meter, i.e. in the box. Therefore I have planned to run the earth out from under the floor void, next to the gas pipe and then up to the meter. Photo here:
Luke
It looks to me that the gas pipe comes in under the floorboards. The clamp would then not be visible for inspection if you clamped it on the inside.
So you will be better taking the cable to inside the gas meter box and doing the bonding there. No need to sleeve the cable
Cheers
Adam
Is that vertical cracks on the harling where it meets the facing brick. Is this a new build?
On (metal) pipework within 600mm of the meter on the consumers side of the meter but before any branches or tees OR within 600mm of the point of entry to the building if the meter is external. Having the bond visible at the meter cabinet saves silly bits of card being left by Transco fitters saying bonding should be investigated if they do a meter change or other work.
Quite often gas companies put insulators in their meters to stop currents passing down their metal pipes.
Cheers
I've just learnt a new word ("harling").
"a mixture of lime and gravel"
Yes they are cracks but only very fine ones. The house was built in
1957. What I do know, is that it is much tougher than I imagined it to be, and very well adhered to the brick. So, although they are a bit unsightly, I do not think the harling is inherently weak. I am sort of assuming that when I paint the exterior of the house, the viscous paint will simply fill those cracks in.Luke
article,
Its always been called Harling in Scotland :)
IME, it's harling if you live in Scotland, otherwise it *is* render. But maybe there is a more subtle difference in the composition to suit Scotland's harsher climate...
I know I had to learn a lot of new building words when we moved to Scotland - e.g. dwangs (my favourite word!)
Graham
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