Don't want to mess this damm room up, last time it was done about 5 years
ago, it was done bad and all the floor rotted and some joists...
So I have placed the marine ply down today, it is 1" 18mm, so what exact
screws should I be using at what intervals???. Should I be pilot drilling
small holes. A builder said just hit some screws in with a hammer, but I
don't want to take his advice.
The shower bit, I have been reading that I shouldn't use basic
plasterboard!!. Hardiebacker500 whatever that is may be a good idea??.
Also read that I should use some plastic sheets? Where do they do, between
the wooden battens and the plasterboard??.
Do I tile up to the top of the shower tray?? If so, do I squirt some
silicone between the shower tray and the plasterboard before tiling??
Any more bright ideas please??.
As I've just posted in another thread regarding plasterboard replacement for
Or similarly Aquapanel.
... also available a Wickes - same stuff but with a Wickes label stuck on.
I've used this in both bathrooms and have been very satisfied with the
results. Fantastically heavy though, compared to plasterboard.
AND, my previous post regarding what to do at the bottom of the wall where
the shower tray tucks behind the tiles:
In my two bathrooms that I've done fairly recently i have:
- planned where the top of the enclosure and top of tray will be - in one
case I was doing the "different colour tiles inside the shower" thing so I
wanted the tops of the "second colour" tiles to end at the top of the
enclosure and also the change of colour to occur where it would be hidden by
the shower frame.
- based on the above, carefull decided where to start tiling both walls (a
corner enclosure in both cases)
- put horizontal battens on the wall to support the SECOND row of tiles up
from the bottom (i.e. the first row of whole tiles)
- tiled everything starting on these battens
- When done, fitted the shower tray (both were Matki with built-in tiling
upstand edges on the "stone" resin trays.
- Then cut and fitted the bottom row of part tiles. With these I cut
everything beforehand then did the following :
- Whacked on a load of silicone on maybe the bottom inch of the tile, rest
normal tile adhesive
- Got them all on the wall as quick as possible
- Applied the main bead of silicone between the tiles and tray (well
actually most of this was what squidged out from behond the tiles). I also
had masking tape on the edges of the tray in anticipation.
- After it had all set, grouted (mix-it-yourself grout of course - a
pleasure to use compared to previous attempts with ready mixed grout or,
heaven forbid, "tile and grout")
- Fitted enclosure as per instructions, including sealing to tile surface.
- Job done.
(one of them ended up like
Of course if you already have your tray fitted so the only bit of advice I'd
give you is to be VERY careful not to drop any tiles into it!
... to which the reply from another expert was ...
"Which is exactly how it should be done"
To be honest I haven't used it for a LONG time so maybe it's improved.
The last time I used it must have been over 10 years ago. The main problem
was in the grouting stage where I hadn't quite got the hang of getting the
excess off the joints quickly enough. ISTR having to actually sand all the
joints to get it to the right shape! Later on I discovered Wickes ready
mixed waterproof grout in a tub, which seemed pretty good. I think the
sturdiest tool I had to use then was a "green scourer" to clean it off the
tiles. BUT on the latest tiling projects I have used powdered
mix-it-yourself grout in a bag, and that is a complete pleasure to use.
Squishes into the joints beautifully and the excess on the front of the
tiles wipes off with just a dry cloth and a bit of a rub.
But as I said, "tile and grout" may be better nowadays!
I would go along with that... I think having used tile'n'grout in the
past was one of the main contributing factors to my mental rating of
tiling as pretty tedious and unpleasant job.
For a recent big project however, I got some decent readymixed adhesive,
and some Nicobond dry powdered waterproof grout, and a decent grout
float. The result was the grouting job was very quick and easy and
actually quite theraputic. Easy to apply, most of the grout you can
squeegy nicely into all the cracks and then cleanly off the tiles with
the float, the remaining residue wiped off once dry. Unlike the
combination products the "real" grout is not sticky, and hence so much
nicer to work with.
I found a nice "rubber finger" in wicks which was also great for getting
a nice concave finish on all the grout lines...
Nice result, well done!
I followed a slightly different approach - but with the same goals in
mind. Not saying this is any better or worse, just different.
I started by working out where the tray was going, and building the
plinth for it (in my case it needed to be raised 4" from the floor to
allow enough fall on the waste pipe). I then clad the base of the
plinth, and both walls with 19mm WBP ply.
The cast stone tray went in next on a 1/2" bed of mortar on top of the
ply plinth. This was butted up against the ply walls.
Once the tray base was set, I then pumped plenty of silicone between the
outside of the tray and the ply walls.
Next I stapled expanded metal lath sheets over both walls. then rendered
over the lath with approx a 1/2" depth of mortar (with waterproofing
admixture). Hence the "walls" of the shower now drain directly onto the
top of the shower tray, rather than beside it.
Finally I tiled (laying the tiles on a 3mm bed of waterproof adhesive).
I used some scrap bits of tile at the base of the wall to space the
bottom row of tiles away from the tray by about 6mm.
Once the tiles were in place, and the spacers at the bottom removed,
there was now a good key into which could be pumped the finishing bead
Hopefully a belt, braces, and susspenders solution!
The one complication with this solution is that the ply walls are a
little thicker than the plasterboard used in the rest of the room (and
that is without the render!). This change in wall thickness however can
be lost at the frame of the enclosure.
That's a nice finish, but with ours the joint between ceiling and wall got a
small coving to make the room look taller. We have a false ceiling to hide
the tanks and things, so the room, although originally nearly 3mtrs high,
was brought down almost 1mtr to make space for all the bitsos and bobsos.
Looking at the pic', now I wish I'd gone with putting the tanks in another
room. Oh well. :-))
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.