Shelving in alcove

[louisxiv]

Hi

First time newbie poster here! I'm aiming to insert shelving into a recess (pictured):

'm looking at around 7-8 pine shelves with uprights to form separators. I'd also like it to have some kind of plinth at the bottom with the bottom shelf raised to about the height of the skirting or above with the wood cut to fit skirting.

Can anyone offer any advice/links which would help me get this right? The recess (of course) isn't totally straight, seems to narrow slightly towards the top. This makes me think it would be best to fit the shelves directly to the wally rather than build in side panels?

Shelves need to be around 350mm deep and 1400mm wide.

Help!!

xiv

[louisxiv]

This makes me think it would be best to fit the shelves directly to

I did, of course, mean the wall. I am clearly the wally here!

[Stuart Noble]

I always treat these things as freestanding units i.e. make the thing with 4 sides and slot it into the alcove. I'd use laminated pine boards and get them cut to size (including the separators). If all the pieces are identical and cut square (especially the separators), it's a simple assembly job.

[sm_jamieson]

I would probably do "floating shelves". Very easy to do and looks good, uses less wood. Put a batton around the alcove at the desired shelf height, then board top and bottom, so you have a thin box section that makes up the shelf. Put a moulding on the front to make it look good. Use MDF or ply etc. No brackets in sight. Also, a trick from decorating show: paint inside the alcove dark, paint the shelves white, the alcove looks deeper, room looks bigger (not tried this last bit). Cheers, Simon.

[louisxiv]

I think I know what you mean. Presumably the batons and the shelf materials could be quite thin too as they'd be suported on 3 sides. And if I used a plain 90 degree cut timber for the fronts I could do uprights too and it would still look ok. How thin d'you reckon i'd get away with (Baton and mdf if I want shelves 350 deep and 1400 wide?

It's working for me so far (as an idea anyway!).

[sm_jamieson]

I'm not too good on estimating this, depends what you want to store on it. You can put additional cross pieces to keep it thin. You could even strengthen with angle iron. If I was doing it, I'd probably use 2x3 inch timber flat, and use mini-joist hangers to hold any additional cross-pieces. I know this all sounds like over-engineering, but I have some of these bits lying around. Sorry that's not really a how-do-do-it response ! Cheers, Simon. I

[louisxiv]

Um.. Now you're losing me! Wouldn't 2 x 3 make for really thick shelves? Or is it me who's being thick?

[sm_jamieson]

Yep, in my minds eye that was a feature ! Simon.

[louisxiv]

Could look nice if it was done neatly. Hmm...

[Stuart Noble]

Might look alright in a garage :-)

[The Medway Handyman]

First thing to do it check out The Sagulator

which will give you an idea of how much deflection a 1400mm span will be in various materials.

I'd use shelving strips like these

along with brackets because you can seriously reduce the potential sagging by spacing the strips.

[Weatherlawyer]

Don't top post. If a post is not required, snip it. The same goes for parts of previous post not required.

The shelving will need supporting for every metre if it is 1" thick. Subsequently, smaller section will require more support. Contiboard will require 2 brackets plus the end supports or you can use something like the first reply recommended.

I'd choose supports running the length of the shelf. Make it out of architrave that goes with the skirting as is likely used on your doors.

Put the lowest shelf on the skirting and put a length across the front. Measure up to take care of the needs of the shelf -so they are not too close together for your needs. All subsequent shelves above the lower one may be taken from the measure ONLY if the floor is level. Otherwise put the next one in with a spirit level and use that one to measure from.

Set the architrave 2" or so back from the front edge and put a strip of something nicer than contiboard on the lip. That will also add strength.

I'd use barge board because I prefer to use real treewood. It should be thick enough at 32 mm? to cope with only the ends supported -just. In which case use plain pencil round architrave and stop the ends 2" in from the edge. Return the bottom corner. And make sure they all finish in a straight line.

You will also need to use some knotting which is a coating of shellac, to stop the knots bleeding unless you are very lucky and can select some knot free stuff.

But I doubt they have knot free wood these days. You can get barge board in any timber-yard. Make sure they don't give you crap. Ask here for the best local yards if you don't know them. There are two types. Those that care and those that don't know any better than cheap is good.

[The Medway Handyman]

I didn't?

[Stuart Noble]

Are you sure you weren't thinking of top posting? Come on, deep down, you want to top post, don't you? Seek help now before it's too late.

[louisxiv]

Maybe he's afraid bottom posting is a euphimism. It has a ring to it.