The beauty of the circ saw method is that you can take off nothing at
all at one end and, say, 5mm at the other. Perfect cut every time.
Plenty of doors have been butchered over the years by plane and handsaw
merchants, and this is a way of straightening things up.
But the major downside for someone like the OP is that you
do need to be able to calculate how much needs to be taken
off and you've fucked the door if you take off too much. The
big advantage with using a plane is that that approach is a
lot more forgiving so you are much less likely to fuck the door.
There you go, face down in the mud, as always.
No wonder the BBC gave you the bums rush,
right out the door on your lard arse and you
ended up an alcoholic.
Even terminal fuckwit such as yourself should be
able to work out how to stand it on one of its
long sides, then turn it over and stand it on the
other long side, if someone was actually stupid
enough to lend you a seeing eye dog and white cane.
You never could bullshit your way out of a wet paper bag.
Even a terminal fuckwit such as yourself should be able to work
out what the word YOU means if someone was actually stupid
enough to lend it a seeing eye dog and a white cane.
It isn't the best way for someone like the
OP who has never done a door before.
And even a terminal fuckwit union bludging alcoholic
should have noticed FAR more people have said in
here that they did the door fine using other ways
than that fool that got the bums rush from Nilfisk
proclaims is the only viable way to do a door.
Do you mean that when the door is wide open there was enough room under it
for the carpet fitters to put down the carpet and that it's only when you
try to close it that it becomes jammed?
If you just want to be able to close the door even if it is still a bit
stiff from rubbing, then it should be possible to remove enough off of the
bottom of the door without removing it, by sanding.
What I do is make up a simple tool from thin flexible steel to hold the
abbrasive paper and move the door backwards and forwards over it. A piece
about 2ft by 4in is suitable, bend over the last 2in on each end and cut a
piece of sand paper to fit pressing down the ends to hold it in place.
Open the door wide and push it under the end, use your foot to hold it in
place and move the door backwards and forwards over it 20 times, move the
tool inwards and repeat until you reach the hinge end and then move
outwards repeating. Hoover up the debris put on a new piece of abbrasive,
close the door a bit and repeat. Keep doing this until enough has been
removed to allow the door to close. It's a bit tedious but if you have
kids or grandchildren they'll have fun "helping".
I'm assuming that you have checked that the fitters did their job properly
and haven't trapped underlay or carpet under the metal door sill stopping
it from closing.
You have certainly excited a hornets nest with this question.
For a one-off door I would use a power planer, with one proviso, that
you always push into the door, and never let the blade emerge whilst
cutting across the grain.
I would run a pencil on top of the carpet marking the door along the
whole of the bottom, so leaving a couple of mm clearance. Best done with
the door near shut.
Take door off.
Set plane to near zero depth setting.
Run plane in from one side, and after a few strokes adjust depth to take
off some material, the same from the other side.
If you allow the plane to emerge whilst cutting across the grain, the
blade will take with it a chunk of door. This is why even Mr Lang says
he is happy to use a planer on the sides, where you'd be planing along
If you have the time and the resources, the sawboard method is perhaps
the most reliable.
Assuming you have the sense to know how to mark how much to take off, it's
quicker. Done in one pass with a near perfect cut - which you'd need a lot
of skill to do with a power plane.
I get the impression few here remember the first time they used a power
plane. Or just have very low standards.
*Where do forest rangers go to "get away from it all?"
Dave Plowman firstname.lastname@example.org London SW
For many years I used a conventional plane, then bought a B&D power
variety and never looked back until the armature burnt out on that and
the second one was stolen.
As you imply, I don't recall the very first time I used one, but was
probably very careful taking just very thin cuts. I feel you have more
control than the hand planer.
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