Retaining Wall...brick types

Hi,
I am currently trying to build couple of retaining walls. These walls are not going ro retain anything major..just so that they separate the paved area at the back from the lawn. I have already dug the trenches and have filled them with hardcore and then 6 inches of concrete. Now i am about to start on the walls which will be less than a metre tall.
Sice this is in the back garden i want to keep the costs of my bricks to a minimum. I have been advised by the local builders merchants to use LBR Tudors. Is this type of brick ok or if anybody can recommend any other type. Do i need to put some blue engineering bricks also?
Many Thanks.
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istyle snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

I can't understand why your BM has told you to use London brick, all the brick outlets around here give warnings about using londons for garden walls - they are the most unsuitable brick for this purpose! - 1) they soak up water like a sponge...2) they retain water like a sponge....3) when frost comes, that water expands and blasts the brick apart given that they are like biscuits - end result: within a few years you will have a nice pile of red rubble where your wall used to be....any of the red Butterleys will be far better, in fact any brick that isn't a London will be far better, here is a bit of info on water absorption: First a Tudor London brick:
Average Compressive Strength N/mm2:22-35 Average Water Absorption % by wt:20-24 Barcode:5050246082310 Brick size:215 x 102.5 x 65mm Bricks per pack:390 Category: Compressive Strength N/mm2:>20 Description:Red multi sandfaced textured Dry weight kg:1.90 Durability to BS3921:MN Format:Frogged Gross density kg/m3:1330 Pack Dimensions w x d x h (mm):650 x 1075 x 850 Pack Weight dry kg:741 Short code:TUD Suction rate kg/m2/min:>1<2 Thermal Conductivity W/mēC:0.79 Water Absorption %by wt:>12
And a Butterley Beckingham red:
Average Compressive Strength N/mm2:45 - 55 Average Water Absorption % by wt:8 - 11 Barcode:5050246076814 Brick size:215 x 102.5 x 65mm Bricks per pack:450 Category: Compressive Strength N/mm2:>40 Description:Red multi textured Dry weight kg:2.15 Durability to BS3921:FL Format:Perforated Gross density kg/m3:1500 Pack Dimensions w x d x h (mm):720 x 1075 x 875 Pack Weight dry kg:968 Short code:BECRM Suction rate kg/m2/min:<1 Thermal Conductivity W/mēC:0.75 Water Absorption %by wt:<12
You don't want soft bricks like Londons, you need a more dense brick for retaining walls, considering some of the wall will be moist all the time, you can get some nice bricks quite cheap if you look around, buffs look good, especially with a blue sailer course three courses from the top, or topped off with blues
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    istyle snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com writes:

LBC Tudors seem to be rated MN (Moderately frost resistant, normal soluble salt content). They won't last all that long if in contact with a bank of wet soil. A damp proof membrane behind the wall might help, but you need to work out how water behind the wall drains away, depending on the local soil drainage.
Engineering bricks can be used along the top to protect the top from direct rain penetration. If the base of the wall might be in standing water, you should use them there too. However, don't put a damp proof membrane through the wall itself -- it will just create a weak point where the wall will break.
Also important is how many courses high and what bond are you planning on using? A half brick retaining wall (stretcher bond) will likely be pushed over if anything over 3 courses.
--
Andrew Gabriel

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Andrew Gabriel wrote:

My garden had LBC windsors with no enginnering bricks in the underground courses and no DPM or anything like that. Most was a bit green but I can't remember seeing any of it that was frost damaged - that's after 20 years. I'm near London though so the frosts aren't usually too bad.
On a wall that I built I painted the back with bituminous paint to act as the DPC and so far so good. I put a few pipes though so that the soil could drain if it got very wet.
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snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.co.uk wrote:

I didn't use any DPC, but I did use concrete block below ground, and where the soil was in contact, using a good quality brick - from a pile that had stood outside for 50 years without damage - for the visible facing.
Damage to less than ideal brickwork on exposed walls is usually confined to an inch or three above ground level, and to exposed top surfaces, these being the coldest and wettest parts usually. .
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The Natural Philosopher Wrote:

Rule of thumb, max height to be retained is 4 times the width for bog-standard brick/block wall without reinforcement. Being 1m high, th wall should really be 1.5 brick thick
-- Cordless Crazy
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Cordless Crazy Wrote:

Ta
cordles
David Hansen.
Must have made ur day someone new to argue with on the internet. Well what if I cant answer the questions you asked? Thats why Im here. The cable is 10amp twin and earth were else would a ceiling rose be ? the bearth is just terimnated in the box. 5amp fuse 10amp wire 20amp junction boxs only 500watts on the circui soon to be 65
-- bwell
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On Mon, 17 Jul 2006 23:50:41 +0100 someone who may be bwell
Yawn. Even more personal attacks.

Then it may be difficult to go further.

Cable is measured by the area of the conductors. How much current a particular area can carry depends on the method of construction and installation and the conditions.
--
David Hansen, Edinburgh
I will *always* explain revoked encryption keys, unless RIP prevents me
  Click to see the full signature.
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David Hansen Wrote:

You all forgot to tell me that the lights will need heat sheilds /fir stops behind them. Aparently because I am breaking a fire barrier.
David ....... you nob (personal attack)
It says 16amp lighting circuit cable on the pack 240v It also says 1.00 mm
-- bwell
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