Porcelain Tile Drills

In the screwfix catalogue Page 62 are some drill bits which it states can be used for Porcelain. Has anyone used these and if so, do you have to use the water cooling equipment that they sell to go with them or can you drill straight into the tile. DId they work?
If you do have to use the water cooling, how does it cope drilling on a vertical surface - doesn't all the water run away?
Cheers
Xav
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On 27 Nov 2004 06:19:48 -0800, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com (xavier) strung together this:

I did once, no better than a decent sharp masonry drill bit.
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SJW
A.C.S. Ltd
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(xavier) strung together

This was definitely on porcelain and not ceramic?
Xav
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I've used these
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?id 054&ts7048
to drill holes in ceramic wall tiles. Never had a problem - the current bathroom has 21 holes drilled with one with no cracked tiles, chips, etc. Didn't water-cool either, but I suspect these aren't the ones you are indicating in the paper catalogue (which I don't have a copy of)
No faffing with bits of masking tape to try to stop the drill slipping or the glase to crack either - just pushed the drill against the mark, started slowly until it bit through the glaze then off it went...
I just stop when through the tile and change to a masonry bit to finish the hole off. I'm told it's best to push the rawplugs through the hole if possible, but I've a few that I was unable to do this to and they seem fine so-far... (Holding up a large towel radiator)
Gordon
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snipped-for-privacy@lion.drogon.net (Gordon Henderson) wrote in message wrote:

Hi Gordohn
Yes, I've used those too. It's just that I've put some porcelain tiles on the wall and they are incredibly hard. Not sure if these would do the trick. Still, they're cheap enough (if you don't try and buy them at bandq!) to give them another go and see what happens...
Cheers
xav
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wrote:>> >If you do have to use the water cooling, how does it cope drilling on

Hi,
I tried with them, and unfortunately they disintegrate very quickly (despite water cooling). What I did find useful is making a small start with these tile bits (to give a slight indentation) and then switching over to a decent sharp masonry bit (obviously on non-hammer!).
HTH
Alex
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On 27 Nov 2004 06:19:48 -0800, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com (xavier) wrote:

No idea. Only drilled porcelain once and it really didn't like my glass-drilling leaf bits, with either oil, paraffin or water as a lubricant.
I notice that Axminster are now offering bits specifically for porcelain too.
--
Smert' spamionam

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xavier wrote:

Are these the 20 quid ones.
I used one on porcelain tiles in the bathroom, having previously tried a couple of B&D/Bosch numbers, ar about 6 each. I would not say that it was significantly better than the cheaper ones. I opted to go for the tile bit to start the hole and then switch to a sharp silicon carbide drill bit. then when this really starts to struggle switch to the tile drill again. This minimises the actual cutting area for each type of drill and was slightly faster than sticking with either one alone. The tiles were still a bugger to drill though.
With a standard drill bit you can at least re-sharpen it once it starts to get knackered.
take it slowly and be patient. My tiles were about 12mm think and it was taking 15-25mins per hole, although it felt a lot longer. drill slowly and use water to cool the bit and remove debris.

water cooling is essential, it doesn't need a great deal of water though. I got one of my kids to stand well back and aim about 6 inches above where I was drilling with his water pistol. With he the holes above the bath there was no problem, and for others I put an old towel down to soak up the water.
cheers
David
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How much per hour do you charge to rent out one of the kids :) I haven't actually got any myself (well I used to have but they're old men now) and I wouldn't trust the wife within a hundred yards of a water pistol.
I think I'll have to resort to plan 'B' (which involves semtex and ear defenders)... xav
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