OT: Tumble dryer lube?

[brass monkey]

I'd have gone with the vent cept it would have aimed at The Major & Mrs Major, next door. No bally good, as you might guess.

[T i m]

Ah.

Indeed not. ;-)

T i m

[T i m]

How often do you have to empty it would you say (per No of washes)?

T i m

[Clint Sharp]

In message , T i m writes

Not my department... No, seriously, the new one has a HUGE tank compared to the White Knight which needed emptying every four-six washes depending on type of material and wash program. We haven't had the new one long enough to establish a baseline yet.

[Peter Parry]

Broadly, yes. All condenser dryers also vent quite a lot of moisture to the room they are in. For the worst performers such as Indesit, Hotpoint and Candy this can be about 1.5L of water released as moist air into the room. For the better performers it is less but most give out at least half a litre per load as airborne moisture.

Yes, they are also easier to install even where a vent could be fitted.

[T i m]

Thanks, I can now cross those off my 'possible replacement' list. ;-)

So, gas dryers ...?

I have a wall vent (if they use the same sort of thing) and a gas supply nearby. I think I remember a mate having one for a good few years and saying it was brilliant. I ask because our last lekky bill was pretty high (worst quarter, worst prices etc) so if we are in the market for something then cheap_to_run could be way up there?

Cheers, T i m

[David]

See this:

[T i m]

So there's a bit more to it than standing it in position and hooking it up, even for a CORGI man?

Cheers, T i m

[<me9]

We are now on to our second[*] gas tumble drier. No problem except you need fixed ventilation in smaller rooms. This is a larger size for our second one (rules had changed, the drier was near identical) and our utility room was just large enough (about 8' square).

[*] Third one, the second one had a faulty timer, the service agent had three attempts to fix it. (With his agreement) we rejected it and to the reluctance of the supplier we got a new one directly from the factory which is slightly different in the timer department and works fine.

I would recommend the manufacturer but not the firm who supplied it. I think the manufacturer had words with them on customer service.

[<me9]

Replacement belts for my old machine (and its replacement) had (very slightly) stretchy belts, eliminating the need for teh tensioning pulley.

[T i m]

I think that's what I have on the washing machine I resurrected from Freecycle a while back (sealed drum, failed bearings). However, the washing machine drive pulley and the motor pulley were fairly rigid, accepting the tension ok.

On this tumble dryer (and many others I suspect) the belt actually drives the (thin) drum directly and the tensioning pulley puts a 'wrap' on the belt, ensuring it goes round the motor pulley quite a few degrees. I'm not sure a directly tensioned belt would work (but would get rid of the pulley bearing in question if it did). ;-)

Cheers, T i m

[T i m]

Luckily we already have that.

Ok.

Result.

Out of interest do you have any feel for how much it costs to run please?

T i m

[Harry Stottle]

A tip if replacing the rollers on this type of tumble dryer is to first remove the lid, then tape the drive belt in position to the drum in several places, (after removing any dust on the drum where the tape adheres to), then when you lay the machine on its side to work underneath, the belt remains in position on the drum when removing the rollers, making it easy to refit to the rollers after.

[T i m]

Nice tip, thanks, however on this model you have to take the back off as the bottom is a one piece plastic moulding with everything fixed to it. ;-(

Process:

Remove the lid. Disconnect cables between side and back. Remove rear bearing cover and pingfuckit. Remove 6 screws holding the back on. Lay machine on it's front. Removing back panel (whilst holding drum in place). Release belt Remove drum.

To re-assemble I held the motor tension off with a long cable tie through the bottom of the machine and round the motor (the whole motor swivels along it's axis against the tensioner pulley (mounted on the motor) and from a tension spring), put the drum back in then route the belt round the motor, pulley and drum (using existing mark on drum as a guide) then slowly releasing the cable tie to just give a holding tension. I then replace the back, refit all the screws and cables then fully release the tie to tension the belt. A bit longwinded but only takes a few min's to do now I know the steps (and aren't taking off bits I don't need to).

It still seems to be running ok with the 3in1 but I'm not sure how long it will last or if a replacement would still need lubing?

Cheers, T i m

p.s. Talking of (formally) releasable cable ties, I note Maplin show them but looks like those they do have in stock are web only.

'll have to get some more as in this day and age they are more environmentally friendly and useful for those things you often need to bundle and un bundle.

[<me9]

No idea in monetary terms, but the first one replaced an electric one at the same time as we changed from warm air CH to a wet system (1993) We noticed a large reduction in electricity bills and a small reduction in gas bills. I would assume it is about a third of the cost of using an electric one.

[T i m]

Ooo, thanks, that *is* quite a saving then. I guess you have to factor in the extra equipment cost and professional fitting though.

Worth a closer look methinks ...

Cheers, T i m

[Tim Downie]

Not exactly rocket science to fit one yourself though...

TimD

[T i m]

Well, no, as has every other inch of water and gas pipe and electric, telephone, video and network cable in this place but apparently I was competent once .

Do they generally use a rubber hose like a free standing gas stove?

T i m

[Tim Downie]

Mine does. Same quick release connectors as used for gas stoves. I dare say it's the same for all moveable gas appliances.

Tim

[T i m]

Ok thanks.

T i m