Not that it probably would make any difference, but I was always told to put the manual into reverse as that gear ratio was the one that was the lowest (highest)ratio and it took more force to move the car with the engine off.
And I was always told to put it in the gear that would make it go uphill, causing the engine to rotate the wrong way if it rolled downhill. Harder to turn an engine backwards?
I thought reverse was the same ratio as 1st. I've reversed quite a few cars at full speed (for j-turns), and they go about as fast in reverse as you can go in 1st (about 25mph). I had an auto that would do 50! Autos of that era had no 1st ratio. They had 2, 3, 4, 5. The torque convertor was used to go slower.
Varies with the car. There were some very low powered cars which could only get up the worst slope in reverse because it was lower geared.
Autos of *any era* have a first ratio (lowest fwd reduction gearing). It is usually arrived at by *compounding* the reduction ratios of 2 or more epicyclic gearsets. The torque converter does not provide a "1st ratio", it merely increases (multiplies) torque through use of a *hydraulic feedback mechanism* incorporating the *stator* whilst at the same time providing a slip factor up to the point of torque converter stall. A small percentage of that slip occurs even at highway cruising speeds
*unless* the torque converter is equipped with a lockup clutch.Please, try not to comment on matters of which you lack comprehension.
Presumably ALMOST in contact, otherwise you're just wearing them out.
I guess you're right though, occasional braking, even just twice each time you use the car (stopping at the destination and stopping when you get back), still moves all the brake parts so they can't rust up. Or maybe they've come up with the wonderful idea of not using rustable metals! You'd think we were still in the last century.
Different skill set. Cars ain't like houses.
Then put me in your killfile you moron.
You wash a device which is outdoors? Do you not have rain where you live?
Mine does it by just parking on the drive for a week.
Never had the latter happen.
I virtually never use the handbrake, it's unnecessary unless you're parked on a very steep hill and can't find anything like a kerb to steer the wheels into.
What's wrong with your feet? I can do that using the footbrake. Hold the car on the brake with the clutch pressed in fully. Lift the clutch until just before the point the engine will stall. This will hold the car for the split second required for the next step. Now move your foot from the brake to the accelerator, apply power, and release the clutch. I always do that and find it much easier than faffing around with the handbrake.
It's one of those things you do on the test then don't do again, like using both hands on the wheel.
All cars should be automatic, then you wouldn't have to do the above. There really is no point in inventing a far superior gearbox, then continuing to make cars using the old one. Same applies to petrol cars, they were superceded by the more efficient and longer lasting diesel engines.
So there are actually drivers even more incompetant than you?
Wow, all that clever tech, when they could have just fitted an auto box.
I went to school every day on a Greyhound bus. The oldest ones they had, as kids tend to vandalise the interior. They required double-de-clutching, not sure if that was the way they were made or because the gearboxes were f***ed. When Tayside buses bought them over, it was quite funny to see the new set of drivers having no clue how to change gear.
Actually, sometimes wheelspinning helps. I once tried to ascend a steep hill with deep snow in a VW Golf auto. Nobody else was managing to get up the hill and had given up. I tried it and went up gently, but there wasn't enough traction in the snow. So I just stood on the throttle. Being an auto the front wheels very quickly got up to a tremendous speed (about 100mph on the speedo) and snow flew everywhere. It dug through to the tarmac and got grip. I continued this all the way up the half mile of road, going about 5mph but with the wheels at 100 and made some nice tracks, which other cars then followed.
It was the way they were made, no synchromesh. My brother dropped into a bus depot to apply for a job bus driving. The boss of the depot came out to see him and noticed a *truck* parked outside the office. The boss asked him if he drove that truck into the depot. My brother gave an affirmative reply and he got the job on the spot, no further interview required. You see, the truck he drove in was an old Bedford with *no* synchromesh. The bus company had a lot of old Bedford buses, also with no synchromesh and used on the extremely hilly routes around the city, and a dearth of drivers capable of driving them.
Most drivers nowadays would have trouble with an open low gearbox, much less a full crash gearbox.
You might find the diesel engine, as far as its use in cars is concerned, has had the death knell sounded. The reason? Particulate emissions, those nasty carcinogenic emissions.
The piston seals pull the caliper pistons back when fluid pressure is released. That takes the pressure off the pads. A bit of flex in the hub bearings is all that is required then for the disc to knock the pistons back a tad so there is minimal pad to disc contact with no pressure. Too much wear in the wheel bearings and the flex in the disc will push the pads and piston back too far. When that happens, pedal travel will be excessive*.
The piston is usually chrome plated. The secret to preventing rust is the dust seals and in regular brake fluid changes. You see, the brake fluid is *hygroscopic* and absorbs water readily. Regularly check, where possible, the state of the dust seals and all will be well.
I've never had a car that would do that, even a 1 litre petrol. Maybe I have more agile feet. If you move your feet quicker, you don't need so much non-throttle power.
Wow, I don't remember being told to do that when I took my test in 1997. Maybe they stopped it. That would take ages!!
I don't recall having to do that either. I think I was told to change down SOME gears, but not every one, and definitely not into 1st, that would cause a jerk.
I do that, but am probably wearing out the brakes. I'm talking about planned stopping for a roundabout, not an emergency. Mind you, I'm also not wearing out the gears and clutch.
Bad idea if it's a lot of slope. I think I've only used gears on a hill once though, in the French alps. It was when the brakes started smelling hot. I was descending a winding road at about 10mph (sharp corners) to 30mph (the straight bits), the hill continued for at least 10 minutes. So I dropped into the manual equivalent of 3rd and sometimes 2nd (it was an auto so 2nd and 1st) to limit the speed to something more reasonable, then used the brakes to adjust the speed for each corner.
Completely unnecessary, just start the car with the clutch pedal pushed in.
I never heard of that and did not have to practice it or do it for the drivers test back in 1966.
We had several weeks of drivers ed and it was with a manual transmission. The car I took my test in was an automatic. We did have to give hand signals,however it was cold when I took the test and the lady giving the test told me she was not feeling well and I could use the electricl signals.
Column shifts are insanely stupid, for autos or manuals. The lever should be on the floor by the parking brake. I had a Honda CRV with an auto gearbox, and a lever on the steering column. You couldn't tell from the lever what gear it was in, you had to look at a seperate electronic readout on the dash! And even worse, the clicks were very weak, so it was far too easy to move it two or even three positions instead of one.
Maybe it's different in the US, but in the UK if you pass your test in an auto, you can't legally drive a manual.
You would have had to use hand signals in a car with electrical ones? What purpose would that serve? Then you'd have passed your test unable to use newer cars.
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