OT: Boiler Problem Update (what is a 3 part zone?)

[Andy Hall]

Apart from the leak.

.andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

[Pete C]

More mentalistic babble...

;) Pete.

[Rob Morley]

Okay, but I thought we were discussing compression joints on copper tube. How hard is it to deburr plastic anyway? :-)

[Christian McArdle]

Pretty difficult if you get IMM in to do it!

Christian.

[Owain]

"Pete C" wrote | "IMM" wrote: | >You can use a Stanley knife to remove the burr. I know what | >I am doing, I am no amateur. See my other post on Hep2O | More mentalistic babble... | ;) | Pete.

You forgot to

Owain

[raden]

In message , IMM writes

Mallets softer on the teeth are they ?

[raden]

In message , IMM writes

Obviously not, as you clearly demonstrated

[raden]

In message , IMM writes

Just pretty crap at everything else

[raden]

In message , Rob Morley writes

Well, ... we were, we've moved on

It depends who you are

[Ian Middleton]

New system in a new house, only 1 year old. Easier to fix myself rather than go back to the builders to fix as in the intervening year had been bought out numerous times and seemed to deny all knowledge they had even built the house !!! Anyway water ran clear, which was not surprising as first thing I did when moving in the house was drain the system and refill adding Fernox.

[Walt Davidson]

I would like to drain my central heating system myself and refill it, including a suitable dose of inhibitor. However, I cannot find a draining outlet anywhere on the system except high up on the wall in the kitchen above the gas boiler (about 8 feet above floor level)! I am looking for something at ground level with a stopcock on it and a hose attachment, but so far with no success. Where is it likely to be??? Some of the pipes are routed under the floorboards. Could it have been located under the floor somewhere?

[Andy Hall]

It's possible, but then you would be looking for an access cover or something if the installation was done properly.

Otherwise it will be a case of drain as much as you can by the high level drain, and then the rest by laboriously draining at a convenient radiator into a container. I'm sure you're read that sludgy water stains.

You can then fit a drain c*ck, or replace a radiator valve with one that has a drain built in.

.andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

[Brian Reay]

You could avoid some / much of the the mess as follows:

Use the drain as Andy suggests to clear the water above the boiler. Don't forget to either turn off the water to the header tank or tie up the ballcock.

Close off all the radiators with both lockshield valves.

You've now got a minimal quanity of water to cope with. You can probably do a controlled drain by removing a lockshield coupling or possibly use pipe freezer (you can hire these). Then cut the pipe at a convenient spot, insert drain valve, reconnect, turn rads back on. A bit of work but minimal mess and not as involved as it sounds.

Refill, adding some flushing agent, bleed, leave for recommended time (2 weeks if memory serves), drain, refill adding inhibitor.