OT: Boiler Problem Update (what is a 3 part zone?)

About reasonable to average I would say:

Discounted Heating is a reasonable guideline:

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Plumbcenter are showing a price of £69 excl. on their web site and normally this is list price so the 20% or so less than that that we found is reasonable for a single item.

If you want one quickly, then try somewhere like Plumbcenter, Travis Perkins, BSS, Manor, etc. (i.e. heating and plumbing merchants). Most close at 12 on a Saturday. If you ask nicely, they'll normally discount by at least the VAT amount - i.e. roughly the online price.

If you can't get the Honeywell one, then it is not the end of the world. Other diverter valve makes should fit.

.andy

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Reply to
Andy Hall
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In message , AMO writes

I chucked a load if them out a couple of weeks ago

I might have some still knocking around somewhere

Reply to
raden

You are a plumber?

Reply to
Tx2

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Fantastic! I think I'll get the part ordered and give it a go. As I'll have the component, if I can't get it working, at least I've already bought the part when I get a Heating Engineer round.

Thanx again.

AMO

Reply to
AMO

Oh? Are they such common items that they get chucked in your trade regularly?

AMO

Reply to
AMO

Do you know how to use a hacksaw?

Reply to
IMM

Definitely - and when.

.andy

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Reply to
Andy Hall

As I said "You really don't know do you. Read and learn." There is no debate. He just doesn't know FULL STOP You don't debate with people who don't know, you firmly tell them.

Reply to
IMM

One of the other posters will no doubt correct the following if it is wrong. I only have experience of 3 port Mid Position Valves. In this case ( with the power off ) if you move the lever towards the back of the valve (as viewed in the picture) you can feel a definite resistance, and if you then release the lever it moves back to about mid-way. This is normal because you are moving it against a fairly strong spring. This is an indication that the valve flap is moving smoothly, and is not stuck. If the power is on and the valve is moved to the fully operated position by the syncron motor then the lever will move easily from one end to the other will no noticeable resistance. i.e. the valve is fully operated so there is no resistance from the spring. I guess there is a possibility that the valve could be stuck in the fully operated position and this would also not offer any resistance to the lever movement. As I said your valve may be different from the above but what i have said may give you a clue.

Reply to
Colin Reddish

The rest of the thread has now propagated through to my server thank you. From the description in another post of the lever being "loose" a common failing is indeed the motor and gear train seizing up but I wouldn't discount an electrical problem keeping it energised without checking first

Reply to
John

In message , AMO writes

I used to repair them for service companies

Reply to
raden

show-business?

Reply to
Kez

I am brilliant at the tango.

Reply to
IMM

Where do O-rings come in to it?

Reply to
Rob Morley

Because IMM famously cut some plastic pipe with a hacksaw, inserted it into a push fit joint (with O-rings) and cried about substandard fittings when the push fit O-ring leaked. The packet that the joint came in said strictly never to use hacksaws as they damage the O-ring.

Christian.

Reply to
Christian McArdle

The "O" ring moved out of its insert housing when the cleanly cut pipe was inserted. This is a makers fault. You obviously don't understand this.

Reply to
IMM

I've never seen a pipe cut with a hacksaw that isn't burred over in some way, either the O ring must have caught on it or the pipe was inserted carelessly anyway.

cheers, Pete.

Reply to
Pete C

You can use a Stanley knife to remove the burr. I know what I am doing, I am no amateur. See my other post on Hep2O

Reply to
IMM

One might be able to, but clearly you had problems.

That's definitely the quote of the month. :-)

.andy

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Reply to
Andy Hall

No problems at all. All done brilliantly.

Reply to
IMM

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