OT: Boiler Problem Update (what is a 3 part zone?)

[Andy Hall]

Based on your track record, hacksaws are contraindicated - especially for you.

.andy

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[Rob Morley]

[Christian McArdle]

That's a diverter, rather than a mid position, in a 22mm compression jointed body.

[IMM]

No. You use a pipe cutter if you can, but if it means you can't ream oiut the pipe tyen a hacksaw is better. But you said "you should never use a hacksaw on pipework except in the most severe circumstances". This is total balls.

I know some fitters who only use pipe cutters whern they have to as they crimp the pipe over.

You really don't know do you. Read and learn.

[IMM]

It is a lever on the end of the metal motor housing.

[Christian McArdle]

Carry on with your hacksaw. Feel free to complain when you screw the O-rings and your joints leak.

Christian.

[SwissTony]

As someone has already said, it could be just the motor screwfix has a synchron motor which fits your model, It actually says it fits ur model in the description, so u can't go wrong search for 19276 it costs £7.99 + postage

[AMO]

Hi Tony.

That's fantastic - thanx.

I think I'll try that first.

AMO

[Ian Middleton]

I had a problem about 3 years ago where the radiators wouldn't turn off. 3 port valve was extremely stiff, the actuator motor being unable to close the CH side. Anyway did it without a complete drain down.

1. Close water feed to CH header tank.
2. Close all radiator valves, both sides.
3. Close isolating valves either side of pump.
4. Place a rubber bung on outlet pipe of CH tank. I chopped up old tubes of set silicone sealant to make bungs. Somebody else said use carrots covered in cling film. Or you could buy propper rubber bungs from a lab ware outlet.
5. Prepare 3 22mm bungs for the 3 ports of the valve.
6. Remove 3 port valve, catch escaped water.
7. Put bungs in the openings.
8. Clean valve. My case was slight leakage around the valves first O ring had scaled up and jammed the valve. Cleaned with descaler, re-assembled packed with silicone grease.
9. Put back, remove loft bung and opened all valves. Remove air from system and test and check for leaks.
10. Still working fine 3 years later.

[Rob Morley]

So you missed the opportunity to flush out all the crap and top up the system with nice new inhibitor :-)

[Colin Reddish]

Hi AMO. I see you have had a lost of advice today on your problem. I suspect by now you will have discovered it is the synchron motor that is the problem. If you are still unsure try moving the leaver at the side of the valve to test for a sticking valve. If you still havn't realised where the valve is, have a look at the picture in the link that Christian posted at

11:49 today. It's the little lever sticking out of the control box just below the electrical cable input.

[mike ring]

"J-A-K-E" wrote in news:6NQ4d.41$ [e-mail]:

Not if it's an old one, like the honeywell that failed on me in the middle of last winter (when else)

Modern ones you simply fit a new actuator - no wet work - the plumber's quote is exorbitant.

Old ones you have to buy a new valve with actuator, (twice-ish as expensive) drain the system, at least partially, and fit your actual valve in the pipework.

Not hard to do yourself, but a lot more labour, so prolly the quote's not unreasonable, but if you can work a spanner, you can do it for fifty quid - ish

mike

[Ed Sirett]

IMHO this does not have to be stated. My guess is that most of us come here to share knowledge and experience. Lively, respectful debate can actually assist. Disrespectful comments undermine the good things you might have to say.

[John]

He may have said 3 Port valve OR he may have been describing a 3 zone system using three seperate zone valves. Did he show you the offending item and did he expand at all on your post content? If you have a faulty 3 port valve it depends on the make as to the cost of the job since some have demountable power heads which can be changed without a drain down (and subsequent fill up again). If the fault is simply the drive motor (synchron) this is cheap and changeable for nearly all makes without draining but microswitch and other problems are maker dependant as above. Of course the valve may have failed mechanically which does suggest a complete valve change with draining. Now if he said 3 part zone this would be better described as an S plus zone system which uses two port valves not three . These are very simliar to the three port ones but the wiring and mechanicals are slightly different. Without further information any response must be a guess but I would suggest any complete valve renewal is with a Honeywell brand.

HTH

John

[Clueless2]

Well if you are prepared to pay around £100 (which I think is fair), why don't you ring around and tell them what you want done and a get a quote over the phone? You want to call the original guy who diagnosed this fault and offer him £100 to do this. You never know.

[Clueless2]

We have BGas 3 Star cover thingy so we usually get them round to do this. Before they fitted the isolation value, they used to only part drain the system (to just below the unit requiring replacement) as our pump and valves are above the cylinder and all the radiators. On the second (or was it third time) they decided to fit isolation valves so that they do not have to do this the next time!

[Colin Reddish]

He has already established it is a Honeywell V4044C1288 (see his post at

11:33 on 24/09), which is a Diverter Valve.

[AMO]

Hi Colin. Yes, been posting pretty much constantly until about noon. Thanks for the post - I didn't realise the lever existed until you pointed it out. Had printed out various documents pointed out by various people, but it didn't click. I tried moving the leaver - it is loose and I can move it about - I don't think it affects anything, but I'll look into it tomorrow.

Thanx.

AMO

[Andy Hall]

In that case, the gears in the mechanism could be broken.

The lever should move with some resistance and against a spring, and be able to be latched in some way at the end of the travel. On release, it should move slowly back under spring control.

In this situation it is even more important to remove the head and check the cam of the valve for freedom of movement. If it doesn't move (ideally in the fingers) or without too much resistance with pliers, then the whole thing including the base should be changed. If it's OK, then just the head.

However, it can be almost as cheap to buy the whole valve base and head, so if I were doing it and not 100% sure, I'd probably do that. I'm not sure that I've seen bases separately, although some heating merchants may have repair kits for the valve base including new seals etc. To be honest, I wouldn't screw around with those because if the base had become stiff through being badly gummed up it may well be a write off anyway.

.andy

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[AMO]

Thanks for that Andy.

As you are probably aware from my previous posts, I have a: Honeywell V4044C1288 Diverter Valve.

The only place I can find this for sale on the internet is:

you know of anywhere else I can get this component?

Its not that I have a problem with this website, but when only one sells the component I can't work out whether it is cheap or expensive.

Thanx.

AMO