Nailing up a ceiling rose

Well, that was a first. Tried to remove a ceiling rose, and screwdriver wouldn't engage with the second screw. It's too dim to see in the recess, but eventually use the torch on the mobile - no slot. The damn thing has been nailed up. By the time I've managed to lever it off, the ceiling rose is in several pieces, and there's a hole in the lath and plaster ceiling twice the size of the ceiling rose, sigh.

Reply to
Andrew Gabriel
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Sorry, that might have been me in an earlier life :-)

Owain

Reply to
spuorgelgoog

What size rose? Redoing the lounge ceiling here has long been scheduled for this Autumn but in the spring I replaced a light fitting that did not work too well with CF and LED lamps for one that could and encountered similar issues . The plaster generally stayed up but several former mounting holes from previous fittings obscured by the removed light revealed. Couldn?t live with that all summer and wasn?t ready to bring the ceiling job forward I obtained one of those large diameter plaster roses very similar to this one

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Though I got mine locally. Couple of dabs of Sticks like Sh*t and the holes and were covered and I was able to mount the new fitting onto the rose using plaster board plugs. It actually looks quite reasonable and as it has proved secure enough to last the Summer it will stay there when the ceiling gets its renovation. A job which moved a bit closer yesterday when Lidl got some telescopic sanders in.
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Of course your rose may have been one of that size already.

GH

Reply to
Marland

Yes seen that, nail gun used with glued nails with serrated shanks. The one I saw had some kind of rubber washers under the nail heads. This must be the way things are done nowadays, as this was a new build. I think we are obviously getting past it, sigh. Its actually more obvious when you cannot see in fact.

Actually, I would not be surprised if they start gluing them up next. Brian

Reply to
Brian Gaff

no horse hair plaster ? ...shocking

Reply to
Jim in the near of Girvan ...

In my case it was wher the overflowing bath upstairs founds it's way out...the spotlight hole..

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

Just the thing for removing pre-1984 artex then :-)

Reply to
Andrew

Downlighters don't need to be fixed, just a hole of the correct size :-)

Reply to
Andrew

Depends if the artex has been tested, but this could apply up to the year 2000 stuff.

Reply to
ARW

I reckon it takes the same sort of stupidity to nail a ceiling rose to the ceiling as it does to glue (as well as screw) floorboards in the loft onto the joists. When a rat died in our loft, I needed to lift boards to get at it. I unscrewed on at one end (so if the boards had been tongue-and-grooved, one edge would lift) and it did not budge even slightly. I can only assume all the boards were glued to the joists... Pillocks!

(Luckily the rat died *just* within arm's length of the open edge of the boarding near the eaves, so I was able to reach in with a plastic bag over my hand. If it had died another inch or so further away, I'd have been buggered unless I could have made some sort of scoop on a long pole - and then found a way of getting that long pole under the boarding with limited space between eaves and boarding.)

Reply to
NY

I take it you're not a structural engineer.

Reply to
tabbypurr

Are you saying that if the floorboards are fastened to the joists, that makes the whole structure more rigid and able to withstand people walking across the joists?

That is probably true, but why should gluing be better than just copious use of screws? Every board was fastened to all the joists it crossed, as well as at various places at the start and end joist, by long screws (*). I made the mistake of thinking that visible screws were the *only* means of fastening :-(

In my book, anything that is fastened to something should be done so in such as way that it can be *un*fastened if the need arises - eg a rat that expires and rots in the space between floorboards, plasterboard ceiling and joists.

(*) Most were nicely countersunk. I discovered one that was not when I walked over the boards in bare feet (well, socks but not shoes) and ripped my heel on it even though the head was only just proud of the board :-(

Reply to
NY

it's a standard way to strengthen timber floor structures.

NT

Reply to
tabbypurr

As a matter of interest, what is the "standard way" of accessing the space between the chipboard floorboards and the plasterboard of the ceiling below, if any wiring needs to be renewed or dead rats need to be removed? Do they drill holes to get a jigsaw in, cut an access hole and then find a way of fastening it in afterwards - eg by fastening a batten to the underside of the cut-out piece and then screwing it to the boarding either side of the hole? And what about if a house had to be totally rewired, as is recommended every few decades - that would be a lot of access holes.

I presume if it is standard practice there must be a good reason for it - evidently it must be stronger/stiffer than a load of screws between boarding and joists which would allow easy access for any maintenance.

Reply to
NY

well dunno about standard, but I just took a circular saw to the chipboard, cut out an 8ft run, laid my cables and then glued it back in place, using sawdust and PVA to fiill the gap. That was over yhe kitchen

Replacing the fit and forget loo fan and adressing the water damage in another room under the bathroom was a question of removing plasterboard from below.

I guess it's whichever you are happiest with or is the most convenient.

It would have been very hard from below in the kitchen because of the exposed beams

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

How did you make sure that the piece you refitted was fastened strongly enough to the edges of the remaining board to be load-bearing? That's why I mentioned the batten on the underside, screwed to the surrounding board.

Reply to
NY

At our first house I remember lifting whole 8x4 sheets after punching the l ost head screws to do some plumbing. For electrical work these days access holes are drilled using board cutters and the hole made good afterwards wit h a plug usually metal that are a correct fit for the hole.

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Richard

Reply to
Tricky Dicky

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